A dead well pump is more than an inconvenience—it’s a full-stop emergency. Showers turn to air, the dishwasher blinks, livestock start bawling, and suddenly “tomorrow” isn’t soon enough. In my decades as a pump and plumbing advisor, the fastest path back to normal is choosing a pump that won’t leave you here again next year. That’s where a properly sized, correctly installed Myers Pump—especially the Predator Plus Series—changes the story.
Let me introduce the Redhawns out in eastern Washington. Emilio Redhawn (42), a high school ag teacher, and his wife Rhea (39), a remote UX designer, live with their kids Micah (12) and Lani (8) on 9 acres outside Colfax, WA. Their 240-foot well had been limping along for months: low pressure, short cycling, and rusty odor after storms. One Saturday morning, their aging 3/4 HP budget pump finally quit—no water, no warning. Their previous Red Lion thermoplastic unit lasted just under 3 years before the housing cracked and the bearings screamed. With family coming for a weekend softball tournament, they needed a replacement fast—and something that wouldn’t repeat the cycle.
For homeowners like the Redhawns, reliability isn’t a luxury. It’s showers, cooking, laundry, and hydration for people and animals—day in, day out. In this list, I’ll walk you through exactly what to expect when you replace an old unit with a new Myers Predator Plus submersible: materials that hold up, motors that don’t quit, smarter wiring choices, correct sizing, installation best practices, and how to get real value out of a warranty that actually covers you.
Here’s the roadmap:
- #1 explains why stainless steel construction is your first line of defense. #2 covers motor technology and efficiency that pay you back every month. #3 dives into grit and sand—how Myers staging keeps you out of trouble. #4 unpacks warranty differences that reduce long-term costs. #5 shows exactly how to size using pump curves and TDH. #6 outlines install upgrades that stop short cycling and save motors. #7 covers 2-wire vs 3-wire decisions, without the confusion. #8 details field serviceability and on-site repairs. #9 maps Myers’ horsepower and GPM options to real homes. #10 lays out a practical start-to-finish swap checklist that gets water flowing fast.
Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM) stocks the Myers models I specify, ships same day on in-stock units, and supports you with curves, manuals, and phone guidance. I’ve curated these as Rick’s Picks because they install cleanly, run quietly, and hold up when conditions aren’t perfect—because they rarely are.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Series Stainless Steel Construction — 300 Series, Lead-Free Components That Beat Corrosion for 8–15 Years
Rural water isn’t always friendly. Mineral content, slight acidity, and pressure cycling will expose weak materials quickly. That’s where 300 series stainless steel construction on a Myers Pumps Predator Plus shines.
The Predator Plus uses stainless for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—every critical wet-end component. Stainless resists pitting and general corrosion far better than cast iron or thermoplastic parts submerged in groundwater. It also resists fatigue from hydraulic forces when the system cycles on and off. With a threaded assembly design, those stainless components are serviceable if needed instead of forcing a full replacement.
The Redhawns’ failed thermoplastic housing split near the discharge after two seasons of hot summers and freezing winters—classic pressure-cycle fatigue. The stainless Myers unit I specified not only handled their water quality but also stopped the weeping seams that had been corroding fittings and spiking their electricity bill.
Stainless for the real conditions you live in
In wells with hard water or mild acidity, corrosion resistant stainless outperforms coatings on cast iron. Coatings chip—stainless is solid. Over years, that means fewer stuck fasteners, fewer seized stages, and easier service if needed.
Built for clean water systems, not just drainage duty
The Predator Plus Series is optimized for residential well water systems. That includes the intake screen geometry and a wear ring that preserves impeller alignment. Think long-term clearances and steady performance—even after thousands of start cycles.
Serviceable without pulling the whole works
Myers’ field serviceable threaded stack doesn’t force you into a proprietary PSAM myers pump lock. If a stage needs attention, a qualified contractor can repair it—saving you time, money, and another pull.
Key takeaway: If your old pump had rust stains, weeping fittings, or cracked housings, stainless Predator Plus wet-ends are the fix you feel for a decade.
#2. Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor Technology — 80%+ Hydraulic Efficiency and Lower Power Bills on 230V Single-Phase
Your well pump is the biggest unseen appliance in your house. An efficient motor lowers bills and runs cooler, lasting longer. Myers pairs Predator Plus with the Pentek XE motor, a high-thrust, single-phase motor designed for deep set depths and continuous duty operation.
The XE’s design supports high axial loads from multi-stage pump stacks, especially at depth. Integrated thermal overload protection and lightning protection provide insurance against two common failure events. When the pump operates near its best efficiency point (BEP), expect over 80% hydraulic efficiency, translating to real-world electricity savings of up to 20% annually versus older or budget motors.
Emilio measured amperage before and after. The old 3/4 HP drew high on startup and ran hot. The new Predator Plus 1 HP with Pentek XE stabilized the amperage draw and restored pressure without short cycling. That motor upgrade wasn’t overkill—it was the right tool for a 240-foot column.
Matching voltage and amperage matters
Most residential installs are 230V. This keeps amperage lower, reducing https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/submersible-well-pump-predator-plus-series-11-stages-1-2-hp-8-gpm.html voltage drop on longer runs and heat generation at the windings. It also allows the XE to deliver higher thrust at depth without strain.
Motor cooling and set depth
Motor life depends on cooling flow. The XE is built for continuous duty with cooling at depth. Maintain proper separation from the intake screen to avoid drawing silt while keeping the motor in consistent vertical flow.
Why efficiency pays every month
Slightly higher upfront cost is offset by 12 months of lower bills. When a pump runs within its BEP thanks to correct sizing, the XE motor’s efficiency and protection features stretch lifespan and reduce nuisance trips.
Key takeaway: A Myers Predator Plus with Pentek XE runs smoother, cooler, and cheaper—exactly what you want 200 feet down.
#3. Teflon-Impregnated Staging and Self-Lubricating Impellers — Grit, Sand, and Silt Resistance That Keeps Your Flow Consistent
Nothing chews up a pump faster than abrasive fines. Predator Plus wet-ends use Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers built from engineered composites to resist erosion and binding when grit enters the flow. That combination keeps clearances tight and maintains curve performance longer.
As a pump ages, worn impellers can’t build pressure. You’ll see longer run times and lukewarm showers. Myers’ composite staging resists that early performance slide. For the Redhawns, occasional post-storm turbidity used to cause morning pressure drops. With the Myers stack, the pressure held steady, and the pump didn’t sound strained on the pressure tank recharge.
Protecting against seasonal disturbances
In areas with spring melt or heavy tilling, fine silt can drift into screens. The Myers intake screen and impeller material pairing fights internal wear and helps sustain GPM output.
Better starts, fewer stalls
Self-lubricating stages reduce friction during startup, decreasing the load on the motor. Over thousands of starts governed by the pressure switch, that’s measurable stress reduction.
When to add a sand shroud
If your well is known to produce sand, add a flow shroud to ensure proper cooling and minimize vortexing at the intake. Pair that with a proper check valve and you’ll further reduce pressure spikes.
Key takeaway: If your last pump lost pressure after a season or two, Myers impeller and stage materials are the difference you’ll feel at every faucet.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion — Materials, Longevity, and Real-World Ownership Costs
Myers Predator Plus relies on 300 series stainless steel for shells and bowls, while many Goulds Pumps models in this class still incorporate cast iron components that can corrode in groundwater with low pH or high mineral content. Compared to Red Lion’s common thermoplastic housings, stainless steel tolerates pressure cycles and thermal swings without stress cracking. Add the Pentek XE motor—with high thrust and thermal overload protection—and Myers delivers a balanced system with lower energy consumption near BEP and slower wear on internals thanks to Teflon-impregnated staging.
In practice, that means fewer callbacks. Goulds units with cast iron in challenging chemistry often present seized fasteners at service time and pitting around the discharge bowl. Red Lion thermoplastic housings are lighter but can spider-crack after repeated pressure cycles, especially where pressure tanks are undersized. Myers’ stainless stack and serviceable threaded assembly let contractors address issues on-site without replacing the entire pump. Expect an 8–15 year service life from Myers vs the 3–5 year cycle I repeatedly see on mid-grade thermoplastics.
When your home depends on a private well, uptime is everything. Between materials that don’t corrode, motors that don’t overheat, and warranties that actually cover you, Myers from PSAM is worth every single penny.
#4. Extended 3-Year Warranty Coverage — Industry-Leading Protection That Cuts Lifetime Costs 15–30%
Warranty is the quiet cost reducer. Myers’ 3-year warranty eclipses the 12–18 month coverage I see elsewhere, absorbing early-life defects and giving homeowners real peace of mind. It’s also backed by Pentair engineering and a US-based support structure, with NSF, UL, and CSA certifications that verify build quality and safety.
Rhea asked me straight: “Will this one be different?” Yes—and I put it in writing with Myers’ coverage. For the Redhawns, that meant confidence moving forward and one less budget variable to worry about.
What strong warranty really signals
Manufacturers with robust materials and QA can afford longer warranties. Made in USA production and tight supply chains translate into consistent builds and faster parts.
Warranty and correct installation
Coverage assumes a proper installation: correct pressure tank sizing, working pressure switch, and no dry-run abuse. PSAM offers full kits that meet spec, so you’re covered on the details.
Documenting your install
Keep your receipt, model, stages count, and install date. Note the TDH and static water level you measured. This speeds any support interaction and protects your time.
Key takeaway: The Myers warranty isn’t marketing fluff—it’s concrete savings over the first three years, right where many budget pumps fail.
#5. Well Depth and GPM Sizing — Match Horsepower to Total Dynamic Head Using Pump Curves, Not Guesswork
Sizing is where projects go off the rails. Use your pump curve, home demand, and TDH (total dynamic head) to select horsepower and stages. TDH = vertical lift + friction loss + required pressure (converted to feet). For most homes, target 40–60 PSI at the pressure tank.
Emilio’s well: 240 feet with static water level around 110 feet. We targeted 50 PSI (≈116 feet of head). Add friction losses through 1-1/4" drop pipe and fittings. Final TDH landed around 240–260 feet. That called for a 1 HP Predator Plus in the 10–12 GPM class with a shut-off head near 380–420 feet to keep the motor in its sweet spot.
Calculate your home’s flow demand
Typical homes run well on 8–12 GPM. Larger homes or irrigation zones may push to 15–20+ GPM. Count fixtures and consider simultaneous use—showers, laundry, irrigation.
Use curves, not labels
A “1 HP pump” can deliver wildly different results depending on staging. A multi-stage pump with the right stack height holds pressure at depth without over-amping.
Don’t oversize “just in case”
Oversizing shifts operation away from BEP, raising amperage and heat. You’ll get cycling, water hammer, and early motor fatigue. Right-sized is energy efficient and reliable.
Key takeaway: Spend 15 minutes with the curve. It’s the cheapest insurance you can buy against nuisance trips and short lifespans.
#6. Installation Best Practices — Pressure Tank, Check Valve, Pitless Adapter, and Wiring That Protects Your Investment
Great pumps die early in bad systems. A clean install with the correct accessories transforms reliability. At minimum: appropriately sized pressure tank, quality check valve, sealed pitless adapter, correct drop pipe, proper wire splice kit, and a calibrated pressure switch.
The Redhawns’ old tank was undersized and waterlogged, causing rapid cycling. We installed a 44-gallon equivalent tank, reset cut-in/cut-out to 40/60 PSI, and added a snubber to tame hammer. The pressure stabilized, and the XE motor’s start count dropped dramatically.
Pressure tank sizing and switch settings
Bigger isn’t always better, but too small is expensive. Aim for a tank that can deliver at least one minute of pump runtime per cycle. Check switch settings against your flow and desired household pressure.
Sealing and sanitary protection
Replace the well cap if it’s suspect. Rain and insects do more damage than you’d think. At the pitless, fresh O-rings and proper torque prevent air intrusion and leaks.
Electrical discipline
Use correct gauge wire for the run length to prevent voltage drop. Waterproof your splices with heat-shrink kits designed for submersible duty, and confirm bonding/grounding to code.
Key takeaway: Don’t hang a premium pump on a tired system. Address the tank, check valve, and wiring—your motor will thank you for years.
#7. 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Configurations — Simplify Where It Makes Sense and Save $200–$400 Upfront
Both configurations work when sized and installed correctly. A 2-wire well pump integrates the start components in the motor, reducing parts and installation time. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box, which can be handy for diagnostics or component swaps top-side.
For most residential replacements, 2-wire Predator Plus models are clean, reliable choices—especially when pulling and resetting in a time crunch. The Redhawns went 2-wire on 230V and were back online fast without a separate box to mount and weatherproof.
When 3-wire is helpful
Long wire runs, special start needs, or contractor preference may favor 3-wire. External capacitors can be replaced without pulling the pump. It’s a trade-off: more hardware, easier service.
Cost, complexity, and failure points
Fewer components mean fewer failure points. A 2-wire Myers can save $200–$400 by deleting the control box and associated fittings.
Compatibility with existing infrastructure
If you’re replacing a 3-wire and the control box is in good order, staying 3-wire can be practical. Always inspect the box—burned relays or corroded terminals are red flags.
Key takeaway: For many homes, a 2-wire Myers Predator Plus is the simplest, most cost-effective path to stable water pressure.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Grundfos and Red Lion — Wiring Simplicity, Sand Resistance, and Real Installation Outcomes
Where some Grundfos residential models push users toward 3-wire configurations with more complex control schemes, Myers gives you the choice—clean 2-wire configuration that reduces upfront costs and job time or a 3-wire option where field serviceability at the control box is preferred. Meanwhile, Red Lion’s prevalent thermoplastic housings don’t hold up well to pressure cycling and grit, leading to loss of performance and early replacement.
On real jobs, Grundfos is respected, but the added control complexity and cost don’t always translate into measurable benefits for a standard residential well. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers shrug off occasional sand surges better than most budget alternatives, and the Pentek XE motor provides robust torque with lower heat at depth. That practical combination keeps installs simple and performance consistent—ideal for emergency swaps where downtime is money and bottled water.
For homeowners juggling budgets and reliability, Myers’ flexibility and durability deliver the best ROI. Between fewer components to mount, stainless wet-ends that last, and PSAM’s same-day shipping, the upgrade is worth every single penny.
#8. Field-Serviceable Threaded Assembly — Service On-Site Without Swapping the Entire Pump
One of the most frustrating realities in the field is being forced to replace a whole pump for a repairable component. Myers’ threaded assembly design allows qualified techs to service internal components of the wet-end on-site. That saves you a pull, a chase for a proprietary part, and often a week without water.
I’ve been on jobs where a worn wear ring or damaged stage was the only issue. With Predator Plus, you can actually address it instead of tossing the whole investment. That’s better for your wallet and the schedule.
Inventory and parts availability
Because Predator Plus uses standardized assemblies, PSAM can stock service kits and repair parts. You’re not locked into a single dealer network or waiting on overseas shipments.
Faster return to service
Serviceable assemblies mean the difference between a half-day fix and a multi-day outage. For families like the Redhawns, that’s showers tonight, not next week.
Extending lifespan the smart way
Replacing a specific wear component restores performance and buys years of life without a full replacement bill. That’s real total-cost-of-ownership control.
Key takeaway: Design for service isn’t marketing—it’s the practical path to long-term reliability and fewer emergencies.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Franklin Electric — Control Ecosystems, Serviceability, and Ownership Experience
Many Franklin Electric submersible systems integrate tightly with proprietary control boxes and dealer networks. While Franklin builds solid equipment, the proprietary ecosystem can complicate field repairs and part sourcing for independent contractors or DIY-savvy homeowners. By contrast, Myers Predator Plus emphasizes field serviceable wet-ends with a threaded assembly, and flexible 2-wire or 3-wire options that work with widely available components.
In the field, I’ve seen Franklin systems require specific boxes and modules to maintain compatibility, adding cost and time when a control component fails. Myers leans into accessibility: stainless 300 series wet-end parts, Pentek XE motor compatibility, and readily stocked service kits at PSAM. That means you’re not waiting on specialized approvals or proprietary parts to restore water service.
For rural homeowners who need uptime and predictable costs, the Myers approach offers a practical balance of performance, serviceability, and availability. Fewer roadblocks. Faster fixes. Lower stress. When water is life, that freedom is worth every single penny.
#9. Performance Options That Fit Your System — 1/2 HP to 2 HP, 7–8 GPM to 20+ GPM, 250–490 ft Shut-Off Head
Myers covers the real-world matrix: house size, well depth, and pressure expectations.
- 1/2 HP: 7–10 GPM, ideal for 60–120 ft wells, modest homes. 3/4 HP: 8–12 GPM, reliable choice up to ~180 ft TDH. 1 HP: 10–15 GPM sweet spot for 150–300 ft TDH. 1.5 HP: 12–18 GPM for higher demand or deeper sets. 2 HP: 15–20+ GPM and very deep wells; shut-off head up to ~490 ft.
The Redhawns’ 1 HP 10–12 GPM Predator Plus sits right in its BEP at ~240–260 ft TDH, giving stable pressure and fewer starts.
Read the curve, not just the label
Within the same HP, stage count and pump curve shape matter. Choose the model that crosses your TDH at the GPM you need—not the highest advertised flow.
Discharge size and system fittings
Most Predator Plus models use a 1-1/4" NPT discharge. Match your tank tee and fittings to minimize friction loss and preserve pressure.
Irrigation and secondary zones
If irrigation is part of your plan, split the loads or select a curve that supports the zone GPM without dropping household pressure below comfort.
Key takeaway: Myers’ lineup has a precise fit for your well—don’t settle for a “one-size-fits-all” pump that never hits its stride.
#10. The Practical Swap Plan — From Pull to Prime with PSAM Support and Same-Day Shipping
When your water is off, every hour matters. Here’s the field-proven sequence I use for fast, clean replacements.
1) Confirm failure: test voltage, ohms to motor, and pressure switch function. 2) Measure static water level and estimate TDH with your known depth and piping. 3) Select the Predator Plus Series model that hits your target GPM at TDH near BEP. 4) Order from PSAM—request same-day ship on in-stock items and add a wire splice kit, torque arrestor, check valve, and pressure tank if yours is borderline. 5) Pull the old pump with care—inspect drop pipe, wire condition, and well cap for contamination. 6) Assemble the new stack: safety rope, cable guard, heat-shrink splices, and match 230V wiring to spec. 7) Set the pump depth above the well bottom per code and well driller’s log; add a cooling shroud if sand is present. 8) Reinstall at the pitless adapter, seal connections, and disinfect the well before restart. 9) Set pressure switch and precharge the tank accurately; check for leaks and run a full system test. 10) Log model, stages, set depth, and amperage. Keep records for your 3-year warranty.
For the Redhawns, that sequence had water flowing within hours. Their showers were hot by dinner, and their mornings were calm again.
Emergency buyers: minimize downtime
If this is an emergency, ask PSAM for the closest curve match in stock. With Myers, you won’t be compromising on durability to get running.
Contractors: streamline the truck stock
Standardize on Myers service kits, common NPT fittings, and tank tee packages. One truck roll, one satisfied client.
Homeowners: document once, benefit for years
Keep your curve, TDH notes, and amperage draw. Future you—and any contractor—will thank you.
Key takeaway: A good plan plus the right Myers pump turns a crisis into a one-day story with a long, quiet tail.
FAQs — Expert Answers for a Smooth Myers Upgrade
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start by calculating TDH (total dynamic head): vertical lift from static water level to the pressure tank plus friction losses plus the pressure requirement converted to feet (PSI × 2.31). Decide your target flow—most homes do well at 8–12 GPM. Then select a Myers Predator Plus Series curve that delivers that GPM at your TDH near the BEP. For example, a 200–250 ft TDH home typically lands in the 1 HP range with a 10–12 GPM model. Larger homes or irrigation zones might push to 1.5 HP. Don’t oversize “for safety”—you’ll move off the curve’s sweet spot and increase energy use and cycling frequency. PSAM’s pump curve charts make this fast, and I’m glad to sanity-check your numbers.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
A standard three-bath home usually runs well at 8–12 GPM. If you irrigate or run multiple showers and appliances simultaneously, 12–15 GPM can make sense. Multi-stage pump design stacks impellers to build pressure across stages, enabling deep wells to maintain 40–60 PSI at the tank. More stages don’t always mean more GPM; they mean more head capability. Pick a Predator Plus model whose curve intersects your TDH at the GPM you actually use. Operating near BEP ensures the Pentek XE motor draws efficient amperage and avoids heat, protecting the investment.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from three factors: precise impeller geometry, tight clearances maintained by Teflon-impregnated staging, and a Pentek XE motor that converts electrical input into usable shaft power with minimal losses. When run at BEP, hydraulic losses are low, and the motor stays cool. In the field, I’ve recorded 15–20% lower energy use compared to budget pumps that miss the curve. The result is lower monthly bills, quieter operation, and longer service life—one of the reasons I categorize Predator Plus in Rick’s Picks at PSAM.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged environments punish cast iron with pitting and rust under the paint. Once corrosion starts, it accelerates around the discharge and fasteners, making service a fight. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and chemical attack from mildly acidic or mineral-heavy water. It also tolerates the mechanical stress of pressure cycles without cracking. That’s why Myers specifies stainless for key wet-end components—shell, bowls, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. In practice, it’s the difference between a pump you can service cleanly at year 10 and a rusty anchor at year 4.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Abrasives attack clearances and leading edges. Myers’ engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging create a slick surface that reduces friction at startup and resists erosion from fines. Clearances stay tight, preserving pressure and flow on the pump curve. In sandy wells, add a flow shroud and ensure proper set height to prevent vortexing at the intake screen. With these protections, I see Myers units keep their performance years longer than pumps with plain plastics or metal impellers that aren’t designed for abrasive resistance.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is engineered for higher axial loads common to deep multi-stage pumps. Thrust bearing design, optimized windings, and thermal overload protection keep the motor in its safe operating envelope. When matched to the correct curve, amperage draw is stable, startup is controlled, and heat is minimized—three keys to long life. In my logbook, XE motors consistently outlast standard motors that run near the edge of their thrust and heat limits. That’s particularly true in 200+ ft wells running 40–60 PSI.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Competent DIYers can install a Myers pump if comfortable handling electrical connections, pitless adapter work, sanitary sealing, and accurate pressure tank setup. You’ll need a lift plan for the drop pipe and a safe way to manage splices and torque. That said, mistakes are expensive. Incorrect wire gauge, poor wire splice kit use, or wrong pressure switch settings can shorten motor life. If you’re unsure, hire a licensed contractor; PSAM supplies both with the same-day shipping, curves, and install kits to get it right the first time.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration houses the start components in the motor—fewer external parts, faster installs, often lower cost. A 3-wire configuration uses an external control box, making capacitor or relay replacements possible without pulling the pump. Both can be reliable. For emergency replacements and standard residential wells, I often recommend 2-wire Myers units for simplicity and cost savings. For long runs or contractor preference, 3-wire is fine—just ensure the control box is correctly matched and mounted in a protected location.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
Myers’ premium models routinely deliver 8–15 years, and with excellent care—correct sizing, clean power, proper tank sizing, and protecting against dry-run—20+ years isn’t rare. Service life depends on water quality, set depth, and cycling frequency. Keep your pressure tank healthy, check switch settings annually, and inspect the well cap and pitless adapter seal. If your well produces sand, add protective measures. Treat your pump like the mission-critical appliance it is, and the Predator Plus will pay you back in quiet, reliable service.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Annually: test pressure switch cut-in/cut-out and verify tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), inspect for leaks, listen for water hammer, and record amperage draw. Every 2–3 years: pull a water sample, check for changes in mineral content that could affect corrosion or scaling. After severe storms: confirm operation and check any surge protection. If flow drops, test GPM at the tank tee and compare to your baseline. Pro tip: keep a simple log—pressure, amperage, and any service notes. The Pentek XE motor and stainless Predator Plus components will reward the attention.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
The 3-year warranty is longer than the 12–18 months typical in this category. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal operation. Proper installation is assumed—correct voltage, sizing, and protection against dry-run. In my experience, this coverage meaningfully reduces ownership cost in the early years, when budget pumps often fail from material or control issues. With PSAM’s documentation and support, claims—though rare—move faster. It’s a tangible edge that complements the stout build of the Predator Plus.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Let’s be blunt. A budget unit might cost half today, then cost you twice by year five. Add a second replacement, plus higher energy draw off-curve, plus time without water—and it’s not cheaper. A properly sized Myers Predator Plus with a Pentek XE motor, 300 series stainless steel wet-end, and Teflon-impregnated staging typically runs 8–15 years. Factor in lower kilowatt-hours from > 80% efficiency at BEP, fewer service calls, and a 3-year warranty; total cost of ownership tilts decisively to Myers. That’s why I specify it and why PSAM keeps it stocked.
Conclusion: Replace Once, Replace Right—Myers + PSAM Is the Upgrade That Sticks
A well pump replacement isn’t about getting water for tonight—it’s about not repeating the emergency next year. Myers Predator Plus gives you the materials that last, the motor that stays cool, the staging that ignores grit, the warranty that stands up, and the flexibility to choose 2-wire or 3-wire without headaches. The Redhawns went from a cracked thermoplastic housing and short cycling to steady 50 PSI, lower amperage, and a quiet system they don’t think about anymore. That’s what good gear does.
Plumbing Supply And More backs it with same-day shipping on stocked pumps, clear pump curves, install kits, and human phone support. I’ve spent decades in crawlspaces and pump houses so you don’t have to. If you want one-and-done reliability, a Myers Pump from PSAM is my field-tested answer—worth every single penny.