A cold shower that turns to a trickle, then silence. No pressure, no recovery, just quiet plumbing and a blinking pressure gauge that won’t climb past 10 PSI. That’s a well pump failing to start—a situation that escalates from inconvenience to emergency in a rural home within hours. A properly sized submersible should deliver a decade of service. Far too often, rushed installs, mismatched components, and budget pumps cut that lifespan in half. Startup is where reliability begins—or where long-term problems get baked in.
Meet the Lafontaine family. Julien Lafontaine (38), a high school math teacher, and his wife, Brianna (37), a registered nurse, live on 7 acres outside Ellensburg, Washington, with their kids Elsie (9) and Noel (5). Their 265-foot well originally had a 3/4 HP pump rated 10 GPM. After a midsummer failure of a budget Red Lion submersible—housing cracked from pressure cycling—Julien replaced it with a weekend “deal” that ran for 18 months before the motor overheated and locked. When I got the call, the priority was crystal clear: get clean, reliable water running fast and make sure the next startup was done right, with components that could take the region’s mineral load and seasonal drawdowns.
This startup procedure walks exactly what I had Julien and Brianna do with a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP, 12-stage, 230V submersible—backed by Pentair engineering, 300 series stainless steel construction, a Pentek XE high-thrust motor, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty. We’ll cover sizing verification, electrical checks, plumbing integrity, safe lower-in procedures, bleeding air, pressure tank calibration, pressure switch configuration, initial runs, and full system validation. Along the way: why Myers beats cast iron, why its field-serviceable threaded assembly matters, how 80%+ hydraulic efficiency saves real money, and how PSAM gets replacement pumps out the door same-day when you’re staring at an empty pressure gauge.
- Item #1 confirms pump-to-well sizing and TDH. Item #2 preps and verifies electrical and motor start-up protections. Item #3 seals and secures the mechanical assembly from intake screen to pitless. Item #4 handles safe lowering with torque control, drop pipe, and wire management. Item #5 primes, fills, and bleeds before first power-on. Item #6 dials in pressure tank and switch cut-in/cut-out. Item #7 runs staged startup and system flushing to clear fines. Item #8 verifies pump curve performance under real demand. Item #9 documents baseline readings for future service. Item #10 sets maintenance cadence that extends life 5–10 years.
Reliable startup isn’t a suggestion. It’s insurance against callbacks, damage, and shortened lifespans. Let’s get your Myers running the right way the first time.
#1. Confirm TDH and Pump Selection – Myers Predator Plus Series Sizing Using Pump Curve and Stages
Correct startup begins with confirming that the pump installed matches the well’s Total Dynamic Head and the property’s GPM demand. An undersized unit will short-cycle and overheat; an oversized one will cavitate or spike amperage. For the Lafontaines, a Myers Predator Plus Series submersible in the 1 HP class with around 12 stages aligned with a 265-foot set depth, a TDH near 210–230 feet, and whole-home demand averaging 8–10 GPM. The Predator Plus pump curves clearly show flow at 40/60 PSI service pressure with reserve headroom at the best efficiency point (BEP), giving stable pressure and lower watt-draw during steady use.
The Pentek XE motor delivers the thrust needed to keep multi-stage assemblies operating without slippage, and the 300 series stainless steel wet end handles Washington’s mineral-rich water without pitting. Before anything else, verify: well static level, pumping level under draw, vertical lift, friction loss on 1-1/4" NPT drop pipe, elevation to fixtures, and desired pressure band to confirm TDH.
Myers Pump Curve Verification Checklist
- Pull the model-specific pump curve for your GPM target and TDH. Confirm the operating point sits near the BEP. At 9–10 GPM and ~220 ft TDH, the 1 HP Predator Plus gives reliable head and efficiency. Cross-check amperage draw against your breaker size and wire gauge at 230V to avoid nuisance trips. Note starting vs running amps for the single-phase motor.
TDH Components You Must Measure
- Static water level; dynamic drawdown under 10 minutes of flow; vertical lift to pressure tank; friction losses for fittings and length; pressure switch setpoint converted to feet (2.31 feet per PSI). Add with a 10–15% safety factor.
Real-World: Lafontaine Confirmation
Julien’s initial “deal” pump was sized at 3/4 HP with no friction loss considered—leading to low pressure upstairs. With Myers, we recalculated TDH and matched the 1 HP, 12-stage model to hit BEP. Problems solved.
Key takeaway: Start with numbers, not guesses. PSAM provides pump curve support so your Myers well pump selection is right from day one.
#2. Electrical Readiness – 230V Supply, 2-Wire vs 3-Wire, and Pentek XE Motor Protections
A flawless startup depends on correct power delivery. The Pentek XE motor on Predator Plus is engineered for smooth high-thrust starts and cool running. For a 1 HP, typical running amps land around 7–9A at 230V, with a slightly higher inrush. Before connecting, verify breaker size (usually 15–20A for 1 HP), dedicated circuit, and proper pressure switch contacts. If using a 2-wire configuration, the start components are internal; 3-wire setups use a control box. Myers offers both—choose based on service preference and cable distance.
Plant a new pressure switch if contacts are pitted. Confirm ground continuity. Test voltage at the switch under no-load and during load. Loose splices heat up and kill motors; use a heat-shrink wire splice kit rated for submersible use.
2-Wire vs 3-Wire: What I Recommend
- 2-wire well pump: Simpler, fewer parts to fail, lower first cost, quicker startup—my go-to on most residential drops under 300 ft. 3-wire well pump: External control box diagnostics and component replacement appeal to some contractors—more parts but easier to service at surface.
Protection Features That Save Pumps
- The Pentek XE’s thermal overload protection and lightning protection are not optional luxuries. They’re what keep windings safe during brownouts, spikes, or stalled rotors. Confirm proper bonding and surge protection at panel.
Real-World: Brianna’s Panel Check
Brianna texted me a photo of the main panel—shared circuit, unlabeled breaker, corroded ground lug. We corrected it, installed a new 20A breaker, verified 232V across legs, and protected the motor from day one.
Key takeaway: Electrical readiness is start-up insurance. Get it right and your Myers submersible well pump starts https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/submersible-well-pump-predator-plus-series-15-stages-1-hp-8-gpm.html clean and runs cooler, longer.
#3. Mechanical Integrity – Stainless, Threaded Assembly, and Sealing Every Connection
Pressure loss and air leaks are startup killers. The Predator Plus threaded assembly allows tight, field-serviceable connections from discharge to drop pipe. Use 300 series stainless steel couplers and check valves where applicable, with non-hardening thread sealant compatible with potable water. Verify the intake screen is clean and the internal check valve is present if required by code and application.
Torque ratings matter. Over-torquing a stainless connection can gall threads; under-torquing invites microleaks. Keep all unions aligned to avoid side-load that leads to fatigue cracks months later.
Drop Pipe and Fittings Best Practices
- Use schedule-rated drop pipe suited for depth and GPM with correct 1-1/4" NPT transitions. Insert fittings only where necessary. Every added elbow adds friction loss and reduces margin at BEP. Stainless hose clamps on wire guards and torque arrestor. No sharp bends on cable.
Sealants That Don’t Fail
- Apply dope then Teflon tape (one-direction wraps) on stainless-to-stainless to reduce galling and seal well. Keep threads clean of grit. Wipe excess to avoid contamination.
Real-World: Getting Past Red Lion’s Leak Legacy
Julien’s past install used a thermoplastic discharge fitting and two-thread-wrap seals—slow leaks at the pitless and union. With Myers’ stainless wet end and proper sealing, static pressure held overnight.
Key takeaway: Build a pressure-tight column from pump to tank. Myers’ field serviceable design makes this straightforward and reliable.
#4. Safe Lowering – Cable Guards, Torque Arrestor, and Pitless Adapter Alignment
Startup success depends on a calm descent. Protect the motor lead with cable guards every 8–10 feet, install a torque arrestor above the pump, and tie a safety rope rated for the pump’s full weight. The pitless adapter needs a clean receiver and properly greased O-ring (potable-safe). Any misalignment can shave rubber or ding seat surfaces.
Lower the assembly hand-over-hand or with a controlled winch. Do not allow the pump to spin free or bounce on the casing. Depth marks on the drop pipe help confirm the set depth and keep you off the well bottom by 10–20 feet.
Wire Management That Prevents Failures
- Spiral the cable with the pipe, never taut. Heat-shrink all splices, then tape and clamp to avoid snagging. Keep splices above the pump housing length and below potential drawdown level.
Pitless Seating Done Right
- Clean and inspect the pitless before seating; replace worn gaskets. The drop pipe should seat with firm downward pressure and lock without twist. Test alignment by gently pulling up—no give means a proper seat.
Real-World: Stationed at 240 Feet
The Lafontaine static level is 110 feet, with drawdown to 140–150 feet. We set the pump at 240 feet to avoid fines on the bottom. Marked pipe let us confirm exact depth during lowering.
Key takeaway: A careful lower is a quiet lower. Protect the cable and seat the pitless perfectly to avoid start-up surprises.
#5. Prime, Fill, and Bleed – Air Removal Before First Power-On
Air pockets wreak havoc during startup, causing pressure spikes, false switch readings, and chattering valves. Once seated, open a drain or laundry sink valve to allow air evacuation. Slowly fill the system by cracking the valve at the tank tee while the pump remains off; this pulls water up via gravity equalization through the check valve path. When lines are wet and air flow subsides, you’re ready for controlled power-on.
On first energizing, monitor pressure rise. If the gauge jumps erratically, a trapped air pocket is still present—bleed at high points. Keep one fixture open to a strong trickle during first fill to sweep residual air.
Pressure Tank Preparation
- Drain the tank completely before startup. Verify the pre-charge at 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40/60 system). Without proper pre-charge, short-cycling starts on day one.
Slow and Steady Valve Control
- Use quarter-turn ball valves to meter flow during bleed. Avoid full-open slams that hammer check valves and shock the new pump.
Real-World: Upstairs Air Flush
Elsie’s bathroom sink was our air sentinel. We ran it first at a trickle, then full once steady flow hit. Within five minutes, pressure stabilized and sputter disappeared.
Key takeaway: Bleed the air, set the tank, then power up. It’s the difference between a smooth startup and a noisy, damaging one.
#6. Calibrate the Pressure System – Tank Pre-Charge, Pressure Switch, and Cut-In/Cut-Out
A tuned pressure system preserves pumps. Set the pressure tank pre-charge at 2 PSI below cut-in; for 40/60 PSI service, that’s 38 PSI measured with the tank empty. Verify the pressure switch differential is correct and contacts are clean. Adjust the main spring to raise both cut-in and cut-out equally, and the differential spring to widen or narrow the band as needed.
Myers’ consistent head production makes 40/60 the sweet spot for two-story homes, though 30/50 is fine for ranch-style houses or shallow wells. When the pump curve supports it near BEP, higher cut-out gives nicer showers and irrigation performance.
Avoiding Short Cycling
- Tank sizing matters. A 20-gallon tank only provides 5–6 gallons of drawdown at 40/60. Consider upsizing if the home uses short bursts (ice makers, quick sink rinses) to reduce cycling. Proper drawdown extends motor life.
Switch Quality and Placement
- Replace crusty switches. Mount them cleanly on the tank tee with a pressure gauge and relief valve. Long, narrow pigtails delay response and invite chatter.
Real-World: Fine-Tuning for Young Kids
Noel’s bath time revealed minor switch chatter at 58 PSI due to a weak spring in the old switch. We swapped in a PSAM-stocked 40/60 switch and locked in crisp cut-in/out.
Key takeaway: Correct pressure settings make the pump’s life easier. The Myers Predator Plus will reward you with cooler runs and fewer starts.
#7. First Start Protocol – Stage the Demand and Watch Amps, PSI, and Discharge
Initial power-on is where you validate the whole system. Close all fixtures. Energize at the pressure switch and observe the pressure gauge climb to cut-out. Shut off power and check for leaks along the tank tee, relief, and unions. Re-energize and open a mid-level fixture to drain the tank down to cut-in. Observe amperage with a clamp meter on one leg of the 230V feed, comparing to the Myers nameplate.
Target a smooth rise to cut-out and steady amperage under load. Minor bubbles are normal during first minutes. If pressure oscillates or amps spike, investigate restrictions or trapped air.
Flushing Protocol for New Installs
- Run a high-flow hose bib for 15–20 minutes to flush fines introduced during install. If your well has a history of grit, a brief flush protects fixtures and water treatment media.
What to Log on Day One
- Record cut-in/out pressures, running amps at 5 GPM and 10 GPM draw, time-to-fill from 40 to 60 PSI, and any notable sounds. These numbers become your baseline.
Real-World: Clean Ramp, Clean Numbers
The Lafontaines’ 1 HP Predator Plus pulled 8.1 amps running at 9 GPM with a steady whisper—exactly what I want to see. Cut-in at 40 PSI, fill to 60 in 46 seconds on a 20-gallon tank.
Key takeaway: Numbers don’t lie. Myers makes it easy to hit and hold target metrics from the first start.
#8. Validate Against the Pump Curve – TDH, GPM, and BEP Alignment for Energy Savings
Performance validation isn’t guesswork. With a fixed fixture flow (e.g., outdoor hose bib at 5 GPM, then 10 GPM using a calibrated nozzle or meter), verify the pressure holds steady and matches the expected head for your TDH and flow. At around 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, the Myers water well pumps in the Predator Plus line run cooler and cost less to operate over time—often slashing annual energy by 10–20% versus misapplied alternatives.
Use your logged amperage and compare to nameplate. Excess current at expected flow suggests restrictions or wrong staging; low current with poor flow implies suction or foot issues (on jet systems) or leaks.
How I Plot Real-World vs Curve
- Convert PSI at the gauge to feet (PSI x 2.31), add vertical lift to the tank elevation, and friction losses. Compare to the operating point on the curve. If it matches, your startup is dialed.
Real-World: Ellensburg Curve Match
At 9–10 GPM, we saw stable 50–55 PSI during continuous draw—right where the curve said a 1 HP, 12-stage should be with the Lafontaine TDH. BEP alignment means long motor life.
Key takeaway: Curve validation is proof, not theory. A Myers Predator Plus that hits its curve on day one will stay on target for years.
#9. Document, Label, and Baseline – The Records That Prevent Future Guesswork
Good startup ends with good documentation. Label the breaker, pressure switch setting, and model number at the tank. Stick a laminated card with install date, pump HP, staging, GPM rating, set depth, static/drawdown levels, and initial amperage readings in the pumphouse or utility closet. Photograph connections and the control box if using a 3-wire configuration.
This is how you prevent future fishing expeditions when symptoms change years down the line. Contractors love inheriting systems with clean records. Homeowners love avoiding guesswork.
What to Include on the Record Card
- Pump model, Pentek XE motor HP/voltage, wire size, set depth, pitless brand, tank pre-charge, pressure switch values, initial amps, and the PSAM order number for easy re-supply.
Real-World: Brianna’s Binder
As a nurse, Brianna lives by charting. Her “Well System” binder now holds curves, receipts, photos, and maintenance dates. When winter hits, they won’t be scrambling.
Key takeaway: Document today to save hours tomorrow. PSAM includes startup log sheets on request—ask for Rick’s template.
#10. Maintenance Schedule – Protecting 8–15 Year Lifespans and Stretching to 20+
A correct startup is half the battle. Light maintenance closes the loop and preserves your investment. The Myers deep well pump line is built to run 8–15 years; with annual checks and smart usage, I routinely see 20+ in stable wells.
Check tank pre-charge annually, verify pressure switch calibration, inspect electrical connections for corrosion, and flush a few gallons from a low tap quarterly to purge sediment. If your water carries a bit of grit, a cartridge filter after the tank protects fixtures without choking the pump.
Seasonal Practices That Matter
- Before freezing weather, insulate exposed piping and seal well caps. After lightning season, check the breaker and consider a surge protector. For irrigation-heavy months, watch for short cycling from leaks.
When to Call for Service
- Rising running amps, louder motor hum, or longer fill times point to a developing issue. Early intervention saves pumps. The field serviceable threaded design on Myers helps qualified pros fix, not just replace.
Real-World: One-Year Check-In
We scheduled the Lafontaines’ one-year follow-up—tank at 38 PSI pre-charge, clean switch contacts, steady 8.2 amps at 9 GPM. No change means we did startup right.
Key takeaway: Maintenance preserves efficiency and life. With PSAM parts on the shelf and Myers reliability, water stays worry-free.
Comparison Insight: Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion (Durability, Efficiency, Ownership Cost)
Technically speaking, material science sets the tone. Myers’ wet end uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—resistant to acidic and mineral-heavy water. Many Goulds Pumps residential models incorporate cast iron components that corrode when pH dips or iron climbs. The Pentek XE motor on Myers delivers high thrust with tighter tolerances, and when paired with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers, it sustains performance in light grit that quickly chews standard impellers seen on budget lines like Red Lion.
Real-world, this translates into fewer service calls. Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings have a track record of cracking under cyclical thermal expansion and pressure spikes—exactly what burned Julien the first time. Myers stainless shells shrug off those cycles and stay tight. On energy, a Predator Plus operating near BEP often trims 10–20% off bills because it moves water with less friction and lower slip. Over 5–10 years, you’re looking at fewer replacements, fewer hours on ladders, and quieter operation.
When reliability matters—the moment your home relies on a private well—Myers’ material choices and motor engineering win out. With PSAM’s support and the 3-year warranty, it’s worth every single penny.
Comparison Insight: Myers vs Franklin Electric and Grundfos (Serviceability, Wiring, and Simplicity)
Performance parity is one thing; lifecycle service is another. Franklin Electric makes strong submersibles, but many models steer owners toward proprietary control boxes and dealer networks for service. Myers’ field serviceable threaded assemblies are purpose-built so qualified contractors can pull, inspect, and replace components without ceremony. That keeps downtime short and costs predictable. On wiring, Grundfos frequently pushes 3-wire configurations with more complex control logic. Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire options; the 2-wire systems eliminate external start controls and save $200–$400 upfront on control boxes—without sacrificing reliability.
In rural homes, simplicity is an asset. When lightning pops a board or a contact fails, simpler wins. With Pentek XE motors providing thermal overload protection and lightning protection, Myers pumps hold up under the same grid quirks that take others down. Combine that with Made in USA build quality, and your first install is usually your last for a long while.
Contractors know lost hours kill margins. Homeowners know days without water are unacceptable. Myers keeps both groups moving, which is why in my book—and in PSAM’s inventory—it’s worth every single penny.
FAQ: Myers Pump Startup and System Optimization
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with Total Dynamic Head (TDH): add vertical lift from pumping level to the pressure tank, pressure requirement converted to feet (2.31 ft per PSI; e.g., 60 PSI ≈ 138 ft), and friction losses in pipe and fittings. Then set your target flow—most homes run 7–12 GPM depending on fixture count and irrigation. Match these to the Myers Predator Plus pump curve. For example, a 1 HP, 12-stage submersible well pump from Myers comfortably delivers ~9–10 GPM at 200–240 feet TDH. If you need 12–15 GPM, step to 1.5 HP or add storage/booster solutions. I recommend validating with PSAM: share well depth, static and pumping levels, pipe size, and desired pressure. We’ll overlay on the curve and ensure your operating point sits near the BEP so you get 80%+ efficiency and a cooler-running motor.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most three-bath homes work well at 8–10 GPM. Irrigation or livestock setups may push that to 12–15 GPM. Multi-stage pumps stack impellers to build head; each “stage” adds pressure capacity. A 12-stage Myers can create the pressure needed to maintain 50–60 PSI at the house even with 200+ feet TDH. At startup, verify the system hits cut-out pressure without stalling and sustains at least 7–10 GPM while holding 45–55 PSI. The staged design keeps pressure smooth across varying demand, minimizing cycling and improving fixture performance. If upstairs showers sag during laundry, you’re undersized; if amps spike on light demand, you’re over-staged. Myers’ curves make dialing this in straightforward.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Three elements: precision-engineered multi-stage hydraulics, Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers to cut internal friction, and Pentek XE motor pairing to minimize mechanical losses near the best efficiency point. When your operating point sits near BEP, a Myers Predator Plus converts electrical input to water movement with less slip and turbulence. Practically, a 1 HP unit moving 9–10 GPM at 40/60 PSI might draw 10–20% fewer kWh annually than a misapplied pump of similar size. Over 10 years, that energy savings plus longer component life outpaces cheaper upfront options. Validate by logging running amps during a steady 8–10 GPM draw and comparing to the nameplate and curve expectations.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged components live in a corrosive environment. 300 series stainless steel resists rust and pitting from low pH, dissolved oxygen, and mineral content that attack cast iron. On a pump, that matters at the discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—exactly where tolerances must stay tight for years. Cast iron can corrode and shed material, widening clearances and reducing efficiency; it can also bind impellers. Stainless holds shape, keeps impellers aligned, and prevents flaking that clogs screens. For the Lafontaines, acidic-leaning water contributed to early wear on a previous unit; with a stainless Myers wet end, corrosion worries are effectively off the table.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Fine abrasives act like sandpaper on impeller edges and diffuser surfaces. Teflon-impregnated staging reduces friction coefficients, letting particles pass with less abrasion. The self-lubricating impellers maintain film integrity under boundary conditions, so you don’t get the heat and micro-welds that deform cheaper plastics. Over time, this protects clearances and maintains head pressure. During startup, a 15–20 minute flush clears disturbed fines. If your well produces occasional grit—common after heavy irrigation or seasonal drawdown—this design choice keeps performance stable. It’s why Myers pumps often outlast budget models in sandy aquifers.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
High-thrust bearings, optimized rotor/stator geometry, and tighter air-gap tolerances. The Pentek XE motor delivers torque with less electrical loss, which keeps running amps on target while supporting multi-stage axial loads. Integrated thermal overload protection and lightning protection safeguard windings from brownouts and surges. On startup, you’ll see a predictable inrush followed by stable running amps that match the curve’s expectations at 230V. In my field logs, these motors run cooler under continuous duty and shrug off the daily start-stop cycles that wear generic motors prematurely.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Competent DIYers with electrical and plumbing experience can install a Myers submersible well pump safely, especially in straightforward residential wells under 300 feet using 2-wire configurations. You’ll need proper lifting methods, torque arrestors, cable guards, a wire splice kit, and the ability to calculate TDH. That said, many regions require licensed pros for potable water work. A licensed contractor brings insurance, specialized tooling, and speed—valuable when your house is without water. My rule: if you’re not fully confident with 230V electrical, submersible splicing, and pitless seating, hire it out. PSAM can connect you with trusted installers and supply every component for a clean, code-compliant job.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration has the start components myers shallow well pump (capacitor/relay) integrated into the motor—no external control box. It’s simpler, has fewer failure points, and lowers upfront cost. A 3-wire configuration uses an external control box with start components accessible at the surface—easier diagnostics and swaps if a start capacitor fails. Myers offers both in the Predator Plus line. For most homes, 2-wire at 230V is my first choice up to about 1.5 HP. For deeper sets, unusual run lengths, or contractor service preferences, 3-wire makes sense. Startup is nearly identical; just ensure the control box matches motor HP and voltage.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing, clean electrical, and basic annual checks, 8–15 years is typical. In clean, stable wells, I’ve seen Myers deep well water pumps reach 20–30 years. Keys to longevity: operate near BEP, keep the pressure tank pre-charge correct to avoid short cycling, protect against surges, and address leaks early. A one-minute monthly sound/pressure check and yearly pre-charge verification go a long way. The Lafontaines’ baseline amps and fill times are logged—if those drift, we intervene before damage occurs.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Quarterly: Open a low drain for a couple gallons to purge fines; listen for changes in run sound. Semiannually: Inspect electrical connections for corrosion; verify pressure switch contacts are clean. Annually: Set tank pre-charge 2 PSI below cut-in; confirm cut-in/cut-out; compare running amps to your startup baseline. After storms: Check breakers and consider whole-home surge protection. After heavy irrigation season: Inspect filters and note any performance changes. Replace worn seals or gauges as needed. This light touch keeps the Myers well pump running smoothly and prevents minor issues from becoming motor-killers.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance issues for 36 months, well beyond the 12–18 months many brands offer. That extended period matters because early-life failures typically reveal themselves in year two. With NSF, UL, and CSA certifications and Pentair backing, claims are straightforward. Keep your install receipts, serial number, and startup logs. PSAM helps facilitate claims and, in emergencies, ships replacements same day from in-stock inventory. Warranty is the last line of defense; proper sizing and startup should ensure you never need it—but it’s great to have.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps can look tempting at half the price, but frequent replacements, higher kWh usage, and emergency labor stack up. A Myers Predator Plus operating near BEP can save 10–20% on electricity. If a budget pump lasts 3–5 years versus 8–15 for Myers, you might buy two or three cheap units—plus pay for two or three pulls. Factor in downtime costs when your house has no water and you’ll see why contractors and seasoned homeowners choose Myers. With PSAM pricing, fast shipping, and the 3-year warranty, total cost of ownership tilts heavily in Myers’ favor.
Final Word from Rick: Why Myers and PSAM Deliver a Better Startup—and a Better Decade
A good startup turns a pump into a long-term solution. A sloppy one turns it into a countdown. Myers Predator Plus pairs 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motors to deliver clean, efficient water under real-world conditions—and the 3-year warranty proves the manufacturer stands behind it. The Lafontaines went from panic to predictable pressure in one afternoon, and they now have baseline numbers, proper cut-in/cut-out, and a pump that actually matches their TDH and demand.
Choose dependable gear. Size it with the curve. Wire it clean. Bleed it right. Log the data. With PSAM, you get the parts, the pump, the curves, and my field-tested guidance. For a rural home that runs on a private well, a PSAM Myers pump startup done right is more than a checklist—it’s peace of mind every time you open a tap.