Reliable water can disappear in seconds. The shower sputters, pressure gauge drops to zero, the pressure switch keeps clicking, and nothing flows. In most rural homes, that scene means one thing: the well pump has quit. When that happens, the next decisions—how you remove the old unit, lift and transport the new Myers pump, and set it without damage—determine whether your water comes back today or next week. And whether the replacement lasts 2 years or 20.
Meet the Farouks—Samir Farouk (41), a high school math teacher, and his spouse, Elena (39), a veterinary technician—who live on 6 acres outside Copperas Cove, Texas. They’ve got two kids, Maya (11) and Daniel (8), plus a small herd of goats that don’t like waiting for water. Their 260-foot private well had been running a 1 HP budget submersible pulling about 9 GPM. After three summers of grit intrusion and hard cycling, that pump finally burned its windings during a 104°F heat wave. The goats bleated their complaints while the Farouks hauled buckets from the neighbor’s hose. Their previous unit—a Red Lion—developed a hairline crack at the discharge and a scored impeller stack, lasting barely four years. This time, they wanted a long-term fix.
We outfitted the Farouks with a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP, 230V, 10 GPM staged submersible—factory tested, Made in USA, and powered by a Pentek XE high-thrust motor. But before a drop of water ran again, we had to get the lifting and transport right. Improper hoisting bends shafts, crushes intake screens, contaminates motor seals, and voids warranties. Done correctly, a Myers submersible arrives at the wellhead exactly as engineered and delivers 8–15 years of quiet service—sometimes 20–30 with excellent care.
Here’s the exact 12-step plan I use on job sites to safely lift and transport a Myers pump—plus pro tips, tool lists, and smart comparisons that explain why a properly handled Myers is worth every single penny.
- Step 1: Prep the site and identify all components. Step 2: Confirm weight, center of gravity, and safe lifting points. Step 3: Use proper rigging and slings on 300 series stainless steel shells. Step 4: Protect Pentek XE motor shafts and cable entries. Step 5: Secure drop pipe, torque arrestor, and safety rope for removal. Step 6: Stage transport packaging to prevent impact and contamination. Step 7: Move the pump with shock control and correct orientation. Step 8: Handle electrical leads and splices to UL-listed standards. Step 9: Inspect, clean, and test-fit at the wellhead. Step 10: Lower with controlled descent and alignment on pitless adapter. Step 11: Commission carefully with pressure tank and switch adjustments. Step 12: Document serials, amps, and head calculations for the warranty file.
Let’s dig into each step with the same straightforward method I’ve used to rescue hundreds of rural systems.
#1. Site Prep and Component Identification – Tools, Pitless Adapter, Pressure System Orientation
A smooth, damage-free lift starts well before the hoist hook touches steel. Clutter-free staging and correct tool selection keep your Myers investment protected.
Technical explanation: Before lifting a Myers submersible well pump—especially a Predator Plus Series—create a clear 8’x8’ work zone around the wellhead. Identify the pitless adapter, drop pipe, check valve, pressure tank, and pressure switch. Map the path you’ll carry the pump to your vehicle or hoist point. Confirm power is off at the breaker (lockout/tagout if possible), and bleed line pressure via a hose bib at the tank tee. This basic prep prevents accidental energizing and sudden line shifts that can jolt the pump and snap wire connections. For the Farouks’ 260-foot setup, we pre-staged rigging, cut the breaker, bled the tank, and pulled a quick amp history from the pressure switch box to confirm failure mode.
- Tools and PPE inventory Electrical safety and de-energizing Marking orientation for reassembly
Tools and PPE that actually matter
Work with a tripod or A-frame hoist rated 500+ lbs, nylon lifting slings (2”), a wire splice kit, insulated gloves, cut-resistant gloves, eye protection, and a torque arrestor sized for your casing. Keep two pipe wrenches, strap wrenches, and a clean tarp to protect the pump. A digital multimeter helps confirm zero voltage at the pressure switch.
De-energize and lock it out
Open the 230V disconnect, lock and tag the breaker, then test for power at the switch and control box if present. I’ve seen too many close calls when someone flips a breaker mid-pull. Respect the circuit.
Mark your orientation
Before disconnecting, mark the drop pipe orientation relative to the pitless. A Sharpie line and a photo save you from guessing the angle later. This makes the re-seat on the pitless smooth and stress-free.
Key takeaway: Ten minutes of prep prevents costly mistakes. Stage like a pro—it’s the cheapest insurance you’ll buy.
#2. Confirm Weight, Center of Gravity, and Lifting Points – 1 HP, 10 GPM, 1-1/4" NPT Discharge
Different pump sizes balance differently. Lifting from the wrong spot can bend a shaft or crack an intake screen.
Technical explanation: A 4" Myers deep well pump with a Pentek XE motor has a predictable center of gravity—generally toward the motor end. Don’t choke a sling over the intake screen or motor cable entry. On a Predator Plus 1 HP, 230V, 10 GPM unit with a 1-1/4" NPT discharge size, weight typically ranges 30–45 lbs dry. With wet lines or attached fittings, loads rise quickly. Use the upper housing or a designated lifting eye if present, and keep the pump horizontal during setup to avoid point loading. For the Farouks, we used dual-sling support—one near the discharge head, one mid-body—to keep the 300 series stainless steel shell safe.
- Balance check Rated hardware Lift rehearsal
Find the balance point before the lift
Cradle the pump on soft supports and test sling positions. Shift your front sling in small increments until the pump hangs level. Prevents surprises when you clear the casing.
Use rated swivels and shackles
A threaded assembly and stainless shell deserve rated rigging. Use alloy shackles and swivels; no hardware-store snap hooks. All rigging should exceed expected load with 5:1 safety margin.
Rehearse the first 12 inches
Lift a few inches to confirm no snagged wires, then lower. That test saves dropped pumps and damaged cable guards.
Key takeaway: Treat balance like science, not guesswork. Your pump will thank you with years of quiet service.
#3. Rigging on Stainless – Protecting 300 Series Stainless Steel and Intake Screen from Point Loads
Rigging is where good pumps go bad if you use the wrong sling or anchor point.
Technical explanation: The 300 series stainless steel shell on Myers Predator Plus is tough and corrosion resistant, but it isn’t meant to be pinched by chain or wire rope. Use 2" nylon or polyester web slings with edge guards; pad contact points with rags or rubber to avoid scuffing the intake screen. Never clamp directly across the motor. Sling around the discharge head area or use the manufacturer’s designated lift points. For the Farouks, a padded dual-sling kept load distribution across the housing without compressing the intake screen or internal check valve area.
- Sling choice and padding Avoid motor cable entry Controlled, slow hoist
Choose the right sling and pad it
Web slings distribute load. Add padding anywhere a sling crosses a seam, label, or vent. Abrasions today become corrosion starters tomorrow.
Steer clear of the cable entry
The cable gland and potting are watertight by design, not crush-proof. Keep sling pressure away from any electrical entry points to protect seal integrity.
Lift slowly with spotters
A smooth, slow lift lets a spotter watch for shifting slings, snagged wires, or contact with steel casing edges.
Key takeaway: Overbuild the rigging. Web slings and padding cost less than a motor replacement.
#4. Shield the Pentek XE Motor – Shaft, Cable, and Thermal Protection Under Stress
The motor is the heart. One nicked cable or bent shaft can kill a new pump before it ever sees water.
Technical explanation: Myers pairs the Predator Plus with a Pentek XE motor that’s thermal protected and designed for high thrust loads. Protect the shaft from impact at all times—use a shaft cover or wrap the end in dense foam. Keep torque off the motor body. Ensure the motor cable is tied off and strain-relieved, never bearing the pump’s weight. Avoid static discharge into exposed conductors. During loading, keep dust caps on and avoid soil grinding into sealing faces. For the Farouks, we added a cable guard and maintained a gentle coil radius on the leads to prevent conductor stress.
- Shaft cover and guards Strain relief on the leads Thermal/lighting protection noted
Cap and cover the shaft
A simple plastic cap or foam wrap prevents dings. Even a small burr misaligns couplings and chews up engineered composite impellers over time.
Strain relief is non-negotiable
Tie the motor leads to the drop pipe every 10–15 feet with cushioned clamps or tape. Don’t let the motor leads ever become a lifting aid.
Respect the protection features
The lightning protection and overload systems are robust, but they can’t fix hard mechanical abuse. Handle gently and you’ll get the 8–15-year lifespan Myers is known for.
Key takeaway: The motor gives you power; your job is to deliver it to the water uninjured.
#5. Secure the Pull – Drop Pipe, Torque Arrestor, and Safety Rope Best Practices
Most pump damage during removal happens because the column wasn’t controlled.
Technical explanation: On removal, use a tripod hoist with a self-tailing capstan or proper lift. As you pull each section of drop pipe, thread on a temporary support tool or lay sections onto padded horses. Keep the torque arrestor intact for reference and install a new one on reassembly. Always include a safety rope tied to the pump eyelet—polypropylene or braided nylon rated for the full assembly weight, UV-resistant, with a heat-sealed end. For the Farouks, we found the old safety rope frayed and one pipe thread rounded. Both went into the scrap bin.
- Column control on the pull Inspect and replace suspects Safety rope tricks
Control the column like a team
Have one person control the hoist, one guides the pipe, and one spots the wire. No cowboy moves. Pipe whipping cracks fittings and kinks cable.
Replace questionable fittings
If you see rounded threads, rusted clamp screws, or cracked PVC, replace now. Don’t put old sins back down the well.
Tie smart, tie once
Use a bowline or figure-eight follow-through on the pump eyelet; tape the bitter end. The safety rope is your last resort if something slips.
Key takeaway: A controlled pull preserves components and your sanity. Replace marginal parts while everything’s open.
#6. Transport Packaging – Shock, Moisture, and Cleanliness Controls for Submersibles
Getting the pump to the well is half the battle. Getting it there undamaged is the other half.
Technical explanation: Package your Myers pump in a padded carton or factory box with rigid supports. Keep it horizontal with minimal vibration. Use foam blocks around the intake screen and motor. Don’t stack heavy items on the pump. Avoid dusty plumbingsupplyandmore.com or muddy beds; https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/submersible-well-pump-predator-plus-series-11-stages-1-2-hp-8-gpm.html contamination on sealing faces invites leaks. Keep the cable ends sealed with caps or tape to prevent moisture wicking. For the Farouks, we used the factory carton, foam spacers, and a strap-down in the truck bed with a moving blanket under the pump body.
- Box and padding plan Moisture and dust control Vehicle tie-down
Use the box it came in
Factory packaging is designed for impacts and orientation. If you must re-pack, copy the factory approach: foam, rigid supports, no point loads.
Keep it clean and dry
Moisture can wick into cables via capillary action. Tape and cap the leads. Dirt on O-rings and sealing faces turns into leaks at 200+ feet.
Strap it correctly
Two ratchet straps, one on each end of the carton. No deforming the box. Leave airflow so heat doesn’t build in summer transport.
Key takeaway: Transport is not a formality. It’s where little mishandlings become big failures downhole.
#7. Orientation and Shock Control – Why Horizontal Carriage Beats Vertical Bumps
Orientation and shock matter more than most people realize.
Technical explanation: While the multi-stage pump can be stored either way, horizontal carriage with padding often reduces shock transmission to the stages and wear ring. Vertical transport tends to concentrate impacts at the motor end if the load shifts. Avoid hard braking and potholes; a gentle route is worth the extra minutes. If vertical is unavoidable, add sizable padding under the motor end and secure the top with elastic ties to prevent oscillation. For the Farouks’ ranch road with washboard sections, we slowed down and re-tied after the first mile to confirm nothing settled.
- Horizontal vs vertical in practice Shock minimization Re-checks en route
Prefer horizontal with pads
Flat, padded support distributes vibrations along the body. The self-lubricating impellers appreciate less impact stress.
Drive like you’re hauling eggs
Even stainless can’t fix reckless hauling. Smooth acceleration, wide turns, and brake early.
Inspect at every stop
A 30-second tie-down check at the gas station beats discovering a shifted load at the wellhead.
Key takeaway: Orientation and driving discipline are free—use both.
#8. Electrical Lead Handling – UL-Listed Splices, 2-Wire vs 3-Wire, and Proper Strain Relief
Bad splices and kinked leads undo perfect transport in an instant.
Technical explanation: Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire configurations. With 2-wire, the start components are internal; with 3-wire, an external control box handles start circuits. Either way, make UL listed waterproof splices above the static water line using heat-shrink kits with adhesive. Maintain gentle bend radii—no tight kinks. Tie leads to the drop pipe every 10–15 feet with cushion clamps or quality tape, and add a cable guard near the intake to prevent rub against casing. The Farouks chose a 2-wire Predator Plus to simplify install and eliminate the external box.
- Splice kits and method Lead routing and tie intervals 2-wire’s practical benefits
Use heat-shrink, adhesive-lined splices
Twist, crimp with the right die, solder only if specified, then heat evenly until adhesive flows. Give each splice a bend test after cooling.
Route clean and clamp consistently
Keep wires parallel to the drop pipe, with consistent clamp spacing. It’s tidy and it protects insulation long-term.
When 2-wire makes sense
Fewer parts, fewer failure points, and lower upfront cost. For many residential wells, 2-wire is the smart play without sacrificing performance.
Key takeaway: Electrical discipline equals runtime reliability. Cut corners here and the best pump can’t save you.
#9. Inspection at the Wellhead – Intake Screen, Threaded Assembly, and Pitless Fit Check
One final inspection before lowering is your last chance to catch a problem.
Technical explanation: Check the threaded assembly between the pump and motor for any signs of shipping movement. Verify the intake screen is clean and free of dents. Dry-fit the 1-1/4" NPT to your first drop pipe section with thread sealant rated for potable water. Confirm the pitless adapter alignment, clean mating surfaces, and lubricate O-rings with an NSF-safe lubricant. For the Farouks, we replaced a notched pitless O-ring and wire-brushed light scale from the mating face to ensure a tight seal on re-seat.
- Pump/motor joint verification Pitless and seal clean-up Dry-fit the first threads
Confirm torque at the motor-to-pump joint
No need to disassemble; just verify no looseness. A gentle hand inspection and visual check go a long way.
Clean and lube the pitless
Debris at the pitless face causes leaks you’ll chase for days. Get it spotless and lightly lubed.
Thread it right the first time
Tight, but not gorilla-tight. Use a torque reference if you have one; otherwise, experienced “feel” with paste sealant is reliable.
Key takeaway: A few minutes here prevent waterline pressure issues and call-backs.
#10. Controlled Descent – Stages, BEP, and Aligning on the Pitless Without Damage
Lowering is where finesse shows. The goal: no bangs, no twists, no scrapes.
Technical explanation: Lower the pump steadily. Support the column every 10–20 feet, letting the multi-stage stack stay vertical and stress-free. Your best efficiency point (BEP) performance later depends on internal alignment that starts now. Keep the torque arrestor centered to prevent spin on start-up. Align, then seat on the pitless without slamming. For the Farouks, we paused at 50 feet to re-check clamps, then continued to 260 feet with a clean seat at the pitless—no drama, no damage.
- Stage-by-stage descent Arrestor centering Pitless final seat
Lower in measured increments
Controlled lowering prevents shock to the wear ring and Teflon-impregnated staging. Rushing here costs you years later.
Center the torque arrestor
A centered arrestor reduces startup twist and protects your electrical leads from rubs against casing.
Seat with a gentle final move
As the pitless engages, apply just enough force to seat fully. If it resists, recheck alignment, don’t muscle it.
Key takeaway: Gravity is your helper, not your foreman. Lower with care.
#11. Commissioning – Pressure Tank, Pressure Switch, Amp Draw, and Pump Curve Match
The pump is in. Now you prove the system matches design and is running to spec.
Technical explanation: Charge the pressure tank per manufacturer spec (2 PSI below cut-in). Set the pressure switch (common residential 40/60 PSI). Prime lines, then energize. Measure amp draw at 230V; it should match the nameplate within normal variance. Compare observed flow and pressure against the pump curve for your model’s GPM rating and TDH. For the Farouks, we measured 8.8–9.2 GPM at the hose bib with a steady 58 PSI cutoff, and an amp draw just under the nameplate—right where a Predator Plus should live.
- Tank precharge and switch set Amp draw verification Real-world flow test
Set 38 PSI for a 40/60 system
Two PSI below cut-in is the standard. Wrong precharge causes short cycling and kills motors fast.
Verify amps
High amps point to binding or voltage issues; low amps can indicate dry-run or mis-sizing. Adjust before you call it done.
Flow test where it matters
Use a calibrated bucket or flow meter at the tank tee. Confirm stable pressure and consistent flow through a full cycle.
Key takeaway: Commission like a contractor, not a gambler. Numbers tell you if your Myers is happy.
#12. Document for the 3-Year Warranty – Serial, Head, Voltage, and Maintenance Plan
Great installs are documented. That’s how you protect your investment and prove performance.
Technical explanation: Record the pump model, serial number, depth set, shut-off head, measured voltage, amp draw, and pressure settings. Snap photos of splices and pitless. File everything with your purchase receipt from Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM). Mark a maintenance calendar: annual pressure tank check, biannual pressure switch contacts inspection, and a three-year splice visual if accessible. The Farouks walked away with a complete file and a plan—no guessing in year five.
- Data points to capture Photo checklist Maintenance cadence
Get the data on day one
Serials, depths, pressures, amps. You’ll need these if troubleshooting ever comes up.
Photograph the criticals
Splice quality, pitless engagement, and label plates. Photos end arguments and speed support.
Plan maintenance like clockwork
Small checks prevent big failures. Your 3-year warranty is strong; pair it with smart care and you’ll stretch service life.
Key takeaway: Paperwork doesn’t pump water, but it keeps the water pumping for years.
Comparison Insight #1: Myers Predator Plus vs Goulds and Red Lion in Real Transport Conditions
Technical performance analysis: In the field, materials matter. Myers Predator Plus uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, and suction screen. That construction resists acidic and mineral-rich water and tolerates transport vibrations without cracking. Goulds units that rely on cast iron components can corrode in aggressive water, weakening threads and sealing faces. Red Lion’s frequent use of thermoplastic housings is light but susceptible to microcracking after repeated pressure cycles and transport bumps. Pair Myers with a Pentek XE—engineered for high thrust—and you have a robust, efficient motor that maintains alignment after long trips.
Real-world application differences: On jobs where hauling is unavoidable—gravel roads, ranch lanes, or logging routes—stainless hardware retains integrity better. I’ve seen cast iron discharge heads pit and seize, making rework necessary at the wellhead. Field serviceability also favors Myers: the threaded assembly and parts availability mean a qualified contractor can resolve minor issues on-site without proprietary tools.
Value proposition conclusion: For rural customers who drive long distances from supply to site, Myers’ stainless plus Pentair-backed engineering minimizes transport risk and installation headaches. Fewer failures, fewer callbacks, and a proven path to 8–15 years (and beyond) of service make Myers worth every single penny.
Comparison Insight #2: Myers 2-Wire Simplicity vs Grundfos and Franklin Electric Control Complexity
Technical performance analysis: Myers offers robust 2-wire configuration options that eliminate external control boxes while maintaining startup reliability. Grundfos often leans into 3-wire systems with more complex control logic. Franklin Electric’s submersibles can require proprietary control boxes and specific dealer networks for support. Fewer external components on Myers reduce electrical failure points and simplify transport and handling—no extra box to mount, wire, and protect during the trip.
Real-world application differences: In emergency replacements, the 2-wire Myers is faster to get running—less to carry, less to break, and fewer parts to mount on a hot, windy well pad. On ranch roads or mobile contractor rigs, that simplicity matters. It also saves $200–$400 in upfront control hardware cost, and reduces points of vibration damage during transport. Field service on Myers is straightforward: the field serviceable threaded design and standardized UL listed splice kits keep installers moving.
Value proposition conclusion: If you’re transporting to remote sites or installing same-day, Myers’ 2-wire systems cut complexity without sacrificing durability or efficiency. Combined with the industry-leading 3-year warranty, the total package is worth every single penny.
Comparison Insight #3: Myers Staging and Bearings vs Hallmark Industries in Grit-Prone Wells
Technical performance analysis: Myers Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers resist abrasion from sand and fine grit. That’s huge in regions with shifting water tables. Hallmark Industries’ pumps typically use standard bearing approaches that don’t tolerate grit as well over time. Myers’ engineered composite impellers and nitrile rubber bearings stand up to transport vibration and in-well particulate far better, maintaining 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP longer into the service life.
Real-world application differences: On deep, sandy wells—like the Farouks’ during drought drawdown—impeller edges get sandblasted. Myers staging preserves geometry, so performance doesn’t fall off a cliff after a season. That translates to fewer emergency transports, fewer pulls, and fewer afternoons burning in the sun swapping out worn kits.
Value proposition conclusion: If grit is on the menu, Myers stays efficient and quiet year after year. Fewer degradations, fewer replacements, and that 36-month warranty under Pentair’s umbrella make the upgrade worth every single penny.
FAQ: Field-Tested Answers to Keep Your Myers Running Strong
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with your total dynamic head (TDH): add vertical lift (pumping depth to static level), friction losses in pipe/fittings, and desired pressure at the tank (convert PSI to feet by multiplying by 2.31). Match the TDH and desired flow (typically 7–12 GPM for most homes) to a Myers pump curve. For example, a 260-ft well drawing from 200 ft with a 40/60 system might need roughly 200–240 ft of head plus friction—often perfect for a 1 HP Predator Plus at 8–10 GPM. Oversizing HP can cause short cycling; undersizing creates poor pressure and hot motors. My recommendation: send PSAM your depth, pipe size, and distance to the tank—we’ll run the numbers and select 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.5, or 2 HP with the right stages for your TDH. The Farouks’ 1 HP Predator Plus hits their 9 GPM demand with healthy headroom.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most three- to four-person households do well with 8–12 GPM. Each fixture adds demand, but rarely will everything run at once. A multi-stage pump stacks impellers, increasing discharge pressure (head) at a set flow. That’s why a 10 GPM Predator Plus with 10–15 stages can push water up 300–400 feet. For irrigation zones or livestock, you might need 12–20+ GPM, which requires specific staging and potentially higher HP. Multi-stage design lets Myers fine-tune pressure performance so your pressure switch cycles cleanly between 40/60 or 30/50 without surging. Pro tip: choose a pump whose curve puts your typical use near the best efficiency point (BEP)—that’s where energy costs and wear stay low.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from precision staging, engineered composite impellers, tight internal tolerances, and streamlined flow paths that cut turbulence. The result is 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, verified on Myers’ factory curve tests. With a Pentek XE high-thrust motor, the system maintains shaft alignment under load so stages don’t scrub and wear early. High efficiency saves 10–20% annually on power vs lower-grade pumps. In long-run scenarios—irrigation, livestock—those savings multiply. Compared to thermoplastic designs that deform slightly under heat/pressure cycles, the Predator Plus holds its geometry and keeps efficiency high for years, especially in mineral-heavy water.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
300 series stainless steel resists corrosion from oxygenated, mineral-laden, or mildly acidic water. It doesn’t pit like cast iron, so threads, wear ring surfaces, and sealing faces stay true. In deep or fluctuating water tables, where pumps repeatedly heat/cool, stainless handles thermal expansion cleanly. It also tolerates transport and handling without chipping. Cast iron components, common on some competitor models, can corrode at thread roots and flake. That’s how leaks and misalignments start. Stainless adds upfront cost but prevents those slow, silent failures that force early replacement. Myers puts stainless in shells, discharge bowls, shafts, and suction screens—critical parts where longevity matters.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Grit turns normal impellers into sandpaper victims. Myers uses Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers that reduce friction and resist abrasive scouring. The engineered composite includes lubricative properties at the material level, so even micro-contact points don’t heat up or gall under light abrasion. In practice, this keeps edge geometry intact longer, maintaining both head and GPM. For wells like the Farouks’—where summer drawdown releases fines—this matters enormously. Pumps with standard bearings and non-lubricative impellers lose efficiency quickly in grit and start pulling higher amps. With Myers, grit doesn’t instantly translate to premature wear.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is built for thrust-heavy, multi-stage loads. It uses optimized rotor/stator geometry, quality laminations, and heavy-duty thrust bearings that keep the shaft true under vertical load. That alignment prevents stage rub, improves hydraulic efficiency, and reduces heat. Integrated thermal overload protection and lightning protection add resilience on marginal power (common in rural areas). Numbers matter: an XE motor running at design amps will deliver consistent torque through cycling, preserving impeller stack spacing and head performance over time. In short, you get lower watts per gallon pumped and fewer nuisance trips.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
If you’re experienced with electrical, rigging, and plumbing—and your state allows it—you can DIY a Myers installation. I recommend a contractor for wells deeper than 150 feet or when you don’t have a rated hoist, because mistakes downhole are expensive. The Predator Plus is field serviceable and designed for straightforward handling. Use a tripod hoist, maintain safe rigging, and follow UL listed splice practices. Many PSAM customers DIY, particularly on 2-wire systems. That said, hiring a pro often pays for itself the first time something unexpected shows up—like a stuck pitless or tight casing. When in doubt, call my desk at PSAM; I’ll help evaluate your skillset and risk profile.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump includes start/run components inside the motor. Wiring runs direct from the pressure switch (and/or disconnect) to the pump—fewer parts, faster setup. A 3-wire well pump requires an external control box with a start capacitor and relay; this allows more serviceability on the surface but adds complexity and cost. Practically, 2-wire is great for most residential wells up to about 1–1.5 HP. Fewer components during transport and install reduce failure points. If you’ve got unique electrical constraints or want surface-accessible start components, 3-wire may be the right call. I like 2-wire for emergency replacements and remote sites—clean, dependable, and cost-effective.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With proper sizing, clean splices, controlled starts, and a healthy pressure tank, Myers Predator Plus routinely delivers 8–15 years. I’ve seen 20–30 years in clean, stable wells with conscientious owners. Key is avoiding short cycling: set your tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), keep the pressure switch contacts clean, and repair leaks fast. In sandy wells, a sediment trap or filter upstream of household fixtures reduces system wear. Document your install today; when you service in year five, those records help spot trends before they become failures. The Farouks are set up for long service thanks to careful transport, correct staging, and on-curve performance.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: Check pressure tank precharge, inspect switch contacts, and verify cut-in/cut-out accuracy. Twice a year: Inspect visible wiring for abrasion at the well cap, confirm ground integrity. Each season: Listen for rapid cycling and water hammer; both are early warnings. Fix leaks, install a check valve if missing at the tank tee (only one topside check—don’t double-stack). Every 2–3 years: Test amp draw under load and compare to nameplate. Rise in amps can indicate impeller wear or partial blockage. Preventative attention keeps your energy efficient Myers running smoothly and preserves its curve performance.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty on many Predator Plus models—36 months vs common 12–18 months from other brands. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. What it doesn’t cover is abuse—like bent shafts from improper lifting, crushed cable glands, or non-UL splices that leak. That’s why this guide focuses on transport and handling. Keep your PSAM invoice, record serial numbers, and store commissioning data (voltage, amps, pressures). If an issue arises, that documentation speeds resolution and gets you back on water faster.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Add purchase price, install time, energy costs, and replacement risk. Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency and Pentek XE motor shave 10–20% off power bills at typical residential duty cycles. Budget pumps can fail in 3–5 years—meaning two to three pulls in a decade. Each pull costs time, labor, and sometimes heavy equipment. With Myers, a single install often runs the whole decade with only minor maintenance. Even if the upfront cost is higher, fewer failures and lower energy draw put the 10-year cost of ownership squarely in Myers’ favor. And with PSAM’s stocking and fast shipping, you avoid downtime that costs in other ways—showers missed, animals waiting, contractors idle.
Conclusion: Handle It Right, and Your Myers Pays You Back for Years
Safe lifting and careful transport aren’t extras—they’re essential steps that determine how long your Myers water well pump will serve. The Farouks followed these 12 steps, and their Predator Plus settled into a 260-foot well like it was born there: quiet, efficient, and strong on a 40/60 system. From stainless steel robustness to Teflon-impregnated staging, from Pentek XE motor alignment to the 3-year warranty, Myers stacks the deck in your favor—especially when handled correctly.
If you’re replacing a failed myers sump pump, installing a myers grinder pump for a barn line, or upgrading to a myers deep well water pump for a very deep casing, the handling discipline remains the same. PSAM stocks the pumps, the splice kits, the torque arrestors, and the fittings—everything you need to lift it right, transport it safely, and get water flowing fast. Call me at PSAM when you’re ready; I’ll size your pump to the curve, spec your rigging, and point you to “Rick’s Picks” for the exact accessories that keep your system dependable.
Do it once. Do it right. With a PSAM Myers pump, that’s a decade or more of showers, clean dishes, and livestock drinking on schedule—worth every single penny.