Introduction
The shower went cold, the pressure gauge pinned at zero, and the washing machine barked out an myers submersible well pump error mid-cycle. In a home on a private well, that’s not a small hiccup—it’s life on pause. When a well or jet pump loses prime, you don’t have the luxury of trial and error. Every wrong move can introduce air into the system, burn a motor, or contaminate the line. Priming properly—safely and efficiently—restores flow, protects the pump, and keeps your house running.
Two weeks ago, I took a call from the Valdivia family near Taos, New Mexico. Rafael Valdivia (39), a high school math teacher, and his partner, Mira (37), who works as a remote UX designer, had just bought a five-acre property with a 165-foot private well. Their previous pump, a Red Lion 1 HP jet unit, repeatedly lost prime during myers deep well pump late summer drawdown. After the last failure, Rafael found the priming plug but couldn’t get the system to hold; the pump cavitated and overheated. With two kids—Diego (9) and Lucia (6)—and a septic aerator depending on steady water, they needed a system they could trust. We sized them for a Myers 3/4 HP Predator Plus submersible upgrade feeding a new Myers convertible jet pump for irrigation, then walked them through bulletproof priming and restart procedures.
Why does this list matter? Because priming isn’t just pouring water into a hole. It’s system safety, air management, check-valve integrity, and pressure calibration. In the steps below, I’ll show you how to prime a Myers water pump—jet or submersible-fed—without drama, with the right valves, fittings, and techniques. We’ll cover the prep, the fill, the purge, the start-up, and the post-prime checks that separate smooth-running systems from constant call-backs. Along the way, I’ll show how Myers’ build—300 series stainless, Pentek XE motors, and field-serviceable threaded assembly—eliminates the headaches I see with lesser brands.
Awards and achievements worth noting before we dive in: Myers Pumps backed by Pentair engineering deliver 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP, a real-world 8–15 year lifespan, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty. As PSAM’s Technical Advisor, these are in my “Rick’s Picks” for good reason—they’re consistent, serviceable, and frankly, they make my customers’ lives easier.
Let’s prime this right and keep your water flowing.
#1. Safety First and System Prep — Lockout, Pressure Relief, and Air Control with Pressure Switch and Check Valve
Reliable priming starts with controlling energy and air. A dry-start is the fastest way to cook a motor or score impellers, so prep isn’t optional—it’s insurance.
- Technical explanation: Before touching anything, kill power at the breaker and tag it. Verify zero volts at the pump circuit. Crack a faucet or hose bib to relieve pressure at the pressure switch port. Confirm the suction-side check valve is present and oriented correctly—arrow toward the pump—so priming water stays where you put it. Inspect gaskets and O-rings on the priming plug. If you’re priming a jet pump, the case must be completely flooded; air pockets at the impeller eye will cause cavitation. On systems fed by a submersible well pump, you’ll still “prime” the line by bleeding air at the high points and tank tee to prevent air binding downstream. Real-world family example: With Rafael and Mira Valdivia, we isolated the irrigation branch and opened the laundry sink to bleed air. Diego watched the gauge drop to 0 psi as we cracked the priming port—great teachable moment about system pressure and safety.
Lockout/Tagout Done Right
De-energize at the panel, switch off the pressure switch, then verify with a non-contact tester. Pumps can auto-start; a hand near a belt or shaft at the wrong moment can break fingers. Safety first buys you all the time you need.
Pressure Off, Air Out
Open a downstairs faucet or the boiler drain on the tank tee to vent trapped air. If the check valve leaked back, you’ll hear a gasp of air before water. Replace weak checks before you prime; it saves you from chasing disappearing water.
Seal and Gasket Inspection
Worn priming-port gaskets allow air ingress during start-up. Replace them. Air isn’t compressible enough at the eye of the impeller; even a pea-sized void can stall a prime.
Key takeaway: Prep is 80% of priming success. Control power, pressure, and air before you pour a drop.
#2. Identify Your Pump Type — Jet Pump vs Submersible Well Pump and What “Priming” Really Means
Different pumps, different rules. A jet pump must be flooded internally. A submersible well pump lives in water and “self-primes,” but the system above ground needs air purging.
- Technical explanation: A jet pump uses a venturi to accelerate water and create suction at the nozzle. The casing must be filled to seal the impeller and build vacuum. Shallow-well jets lift up to ~25 feet; deep-well jets use a packer assembly and two-pipe system to drive water up from deeper levels. A submersible well pump pushes from below; priming involves bleeding lines and setting the pressure tank and pressure switch cut-in/cut-out correctly so the motor doesn’t short-cycle while air exits the system. Valdivia example: The Valdivias’ new Predator Plus Series submersible handled the 165-foot head. They also kept a convertible jet pump for yard taps. We primed the jet side and purged the submersible-fed house loop in one visit.
Shallow vs Deep-Well Jet Clues
One pipe into the well typically signals shallow jet; two pipes suggest deep-well jet with a packer. Priming ports differ—follow the Myers manual for your exact casting.
Submersible “Priming” = Air Management
With a submersible, crack the tank tee port and upstairs faucets to move air to the highest points. Watch the gauge climb steadily to your cut-out—usually 50–60 psi—without surging.
Convertible Jet Flexibility
A convertible jet pump can reconfigure from shallow to deep-well. When depth or seasonal drawdown changes, you’re ready. Priming steps change slightly; plug locations and bypasses matter.
Key takeaway: Know your pump architecture. Your priming method depends on it.
#3. Gather the Right Tools and Parts — Wire Splice Kit, Fittings Kit, and 1-1/4" NPT Priming Funnel
The right kit turns priming from a wrestling match into a 10-minute tune-up.
- Technical explanation: For most Myers jets, you’ll remove a priming plug (often 1/4" to 1/2" NPT) and use a threaded funnel or a short nipple with a ball valve and adapter to pour priming water cleanly. Keep a fittings kit, PTFE tape, and a small hand pump or transfer pump handy. If you’re working on a submersible line, have a wire splice kit and a Schrader gauge for the pressure tank pre-charge. Valdivia example: Mira kept a clean 5-gallon bucket and short hose dedicated to priming water. That prevented grit in the volute—a small step that prevents big problems.
Priming Funnel Setup
Use a 1-1/4" x 3/4" bushing with a ball valve and short clear hose to control flow. Clear hose lets you see air escaping and water level inside the pump case.
Tank Pre-Charge Check
Before priming, set the tank pre-charge to 2 psi below cut-in (e.g., 38 psi for a 40/60 setup). This ensures smoother restart and avoids short-cycling.
Spare Gaskets and O-Rings
Keep OEM gaskets on hand. A flat or cracked O-ring at the priming plug causes a maddening slow air leak that mimics a bad foot valve.
Key takeaway: A $20 funnel and a few fittings save hours and protect your investment.
#4. Fill the Pump Casing Completely — Engineered Composite Impellers and Teflon-Impregnated Staging Love Water, Not Air
Flooding the pump is non-negotiable; engineered composite impellers are tough, but dry friction is a killer.
- Technical explanation: Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging is self-lubricating, designed to resist grit abrasion, but like all impeller systems, it needs water for boundary lubrication. Pour priming water until the casing stays topped off and air stops burping out. For deep-well jets, you may need to fill via both the discharge and priming ports to push air down the two-pipe packer leg. Reinstall the priming plug with a new gasket. If the pump has an internal check valve, it will hold fill water between attempts. Valdivia example: On Rafael’s yard jet, we filled through the top port twice and cracked the discharge union to burp a final air pocket. Once the casing stayed full for a full minute, we were greenlit.
How Much Water Is “Full”?
For most 3/4–1 HP cases, expect 1–2 gallons. If you keep adding water and the level never rises, your suction-side check valve or foot valve is leaking back.
Deep-Well Jet Trick
If you’re running a two-pipe system, add water, wait 60 seconds, add again. You’re displacing air from the injector below—patience pays off.
Seal It Tight, Not Brutish
Install the priming plug snug with PTFE tape—over-torquing cracks castings. Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is usually right.
Key takeaway: Water in, air out, seals intact—now you’re ready to start.
#5. Controlled Start-Up — Pressure Switch, 230V Start, and Avoiding Cavitation on a 3/4–1 HP Jet Pump
That first start decides whether your prime holds or disappears in a foamy roar.
- Technical explanation: Restore power at the breaker, then close the vented faucets to leave one slightly open. Set the pressure switch to your desired 40/60 or 30/50. For a 230V single-phase motor, confirm correct wiring on the terminal block per the Myers diagram. Start the pump and watch the gauge. If it drops to zero and doesn’t rise within 30 seconds, kill power and add more priming water—don’t let it run dry. Properly primed, the gauge climbs to cut-out smoothly. Valdivia example: With a 3/4 HP jet feeding garden spigots, Rafael watched the gauge rise from 10 to 60 psi in 45 seconds. No chatter, no surging—that’s a stable prime.
Bleed a Little, Not a Lot
Keep one faucet half-open so air can leave but you’re not dumping your prime down the drain. When the flow steadies, close it and let the system hit cut-out.
Listen for Trouble
Growling or clicking? That’s air or a misaligned impeller. Hiss at the priming plug? Reseat the gasket. Quick intervention prevents damage.
Set the Switch, Check Amps
Verify amperage draw against the nameplate using a clamp meter. High amps indicate binding, incorrect voltage, or low inlet pressure.
Key takeaway: Don’t force it. A clean rise to pressure equals a successful prime.
#6. Purge Air from the Lines — Pressure Tank, Air at High Points, and TDH Reality Check
Air slugging faucets after a prime isn’t just annoying; it can make your system short-cycle.
- Technical explanation: After initial prime, you need to clear air from the distribution. Open the highest faucets first, then work down. If your system includes a pressure tank, confirm pre-charge remains 2 psi below cut-in. Total Dynamic Head ( TDH) matters here: long horizontal runs and elevation differences trap air. If you’ve upgraded to a submersible well pump feeding the house, crack the upstairs tub and the tank tee boiler drain simultaneously to push remaining air out efficiently. Valdivia example: Mira opened the upstairs shower and the kitchen tap. Within two minutes, sputters gave way to steady flow. The tank cycled from 40 to 60 psi in predictable intervals.
Purge Order Matters
High to low. Fixtures with aerators first—they catch and release small air quickly. Hose bibs last to blast any grit that arrived with the refill.
Watch the Gauge
Steady climbs and predictable kick-in/out are your signal. If the switch chatters, your pre-charge is off or you still have trapped air.
Pro Tip: Clear the Water Heater
If you ran the water heater dry during outage, purge the hot side with the heater OFF until flow is smooth, then restore power.
Key takeaway: Clear the lines, protect the tank, and verify predictable cycling.
#7. Inspect for Suction Leaks — Threaded Assembly, 300 Series Stainless Steel, and Drop Pipe Integrity
Air leaks on the suction side sabotage even the best prime.
- Technical explanation: Myers’ field-serviceable threaded assembly makes inspection straightforward. Check all suction joints with soapy water—any bubble growth is a leak. On submersible-fed systems, confirm drop pipe unions and pitless adapter seals are tight. If your jet pump lives in a corrosive environment, Myers’ 300 series stainless steel components shrug off pH swings that pit lesser metals. Re-prime only after leaks are corrected; otherwise you’re feeding air back into the casing every time the pump runs. Valdivia example: We found a hairline crack in an old PVC elbow between the foot valve and the shallow pickup for the garden line. Replaced it, re-primed, and the gauge held overnight.
Foot Valve Reality Check
Pull the foot valve if your prime vanishes after a few hours. A worn seat leaks back and invites air in. Replace with brass or stainless for durability.
Thread Sealant Done Right
Use PTFE tape plus a light pipe dope layer on male threads—belt and suspenders for vacuum integrity.
Stainless that Lasts
Acidic or mineral-rich water eats cast iron. Myers’ stainless housings handle the chemistry without flaking rust into your lines.
Key takeaway: A prime is only as good as the suction tightness. Fix leaks, then prime once.
#8. Competitor Reality Check — Why Myers Beats Goulds and Red Lion for Priming Stability and Long-Term Service
Comparison matters when priming stability and service life are on the line.
- Technical performance analysis: Myers pumps use 300 series stainless steel where it counts, with engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging that maintain clearances under heat better than many cast iron designs. Paired with the Pentek XE motor, you see strong starting torque and reliable recovery to BEP without lugging. Red Lion’s frequent use of thermoplastic housings is lighter but more susceptible to distortion under repeated heat cycles from marginal primes. Goulds offers solid products, but in corrosive or sandy environments, cast iron staging wears faster than Myers’ composite assemblies. Real-world application differences: In daily operation, this translates to fewer re-primes and more consistent pressure recovery after outages. Thermoplastic housings that flex slightly under temperature change can loosen seals; that microscopic movement is all it takes to introduce air on the suction side. Goulds deep-well jets can perform well, but I continue to replace worn iron components in hard-water wells at year 5–7. Myers systems I service in the same conditions often run 8–15 years with impeller clearances still within spec. Value proposition conclusion: If your household depends on a clean prime and consistent restarts, the materials and motor pairing in Myers do real work. Durable stainless components, Pentair-backed motors, and PSAM support make the premium well worth every single penny.
Field Serviceability during Priming
Being able to pull and reseal a joint without specialized tools saves hours. Myers’ threaded assembly design is built for that.
Heat and Pressure Stability
Priming heat spikes are rough on plastic. Stainless and composite staging maintain shape, preventing post-prime leaks.
Key takeaway: When priming reliability is mission-critical, materials and motor quality aren’t luxuries—they’re assets.
#9. Electrical and Control Review — 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Well Pump, Control Box Health, and Pressure Switch Calibration
A perfect hydraulic prime fails fast if your controls are misconfigured.
- Technical explanation: Know your configuration. A 2-wire well pump has internal start components; a 3-wire well pump uses an external control box. Inspect capacitor health on 3-wire systems and verify all connections are tight. Set the pressure switch properly—typical 40/60—and confirm the contacts aren’t pitted. With 230V supply, check both legs within 2% of nameplate. Subpar voltage causes hard starts and longer prime recovery times. Valdivia example: Rafael’s submersible upgrade was a 3/4 HP, 230V 2-wire—simple, reliable. We set the switch to 40/60 and verified consistent kick-in at 40 psi after purging.
Switch Settings that Stick
Adjust with power off. Increase differential to reduce short-cycling if your tank is small. Fine-tune after observing multiple cycles.
Control Box Check (3-Wire)
If your motor struggles to reach pressure post-prime, test start/run capacitors. Replace weak parts now, not at midnight after a storm.
Grounding and Surge Protection
Add surge protection; lightning protection built into motors helps, but line surges kill controls first.
Key takeaway: Electrical health makes a prime stick. Verify, calibrate, protect.
#10. Final Verification and Maintenance — Pump Curve Reality, Amperage Draw, and 3-Year Warranty Confidence
Closing the loop means validating performance against specifications and planning basic maintenance.
- Technical explanation: Match your observed pressure and flow to the pump curve. If you’ve selected a Myers 3/4 HP rated for 10 GPM at your TDH, your hose bib test should approximate that at mid-pressure. Check amperage against nameplate; amps above spec hint at restriction or misalignment. Set a quarterly visual inspection: look at the pressure tank, the check valve, and the priming plug. With Myers’ 3-year warranty, you’ve got coverage that dwarfs the budget brands. Valdivia example: We measured 9.6 GPM at 50 psi on the garden line—right on the curve. Mira set a calendar reminder to crack the priming plug and inspect the gasket every spring.
Reading the Curve Like a Pro
Flow falls as head rises. If you’re far left or right of BEP, adjust nozzle size (jet) or consider staging changes at replacement time.
Maintenance that Matters
- Inspect for leaks Verify tank pre-charge Clean aerators Exercise isolation valves quarterly
Warranty with Teeth
Myers’ coverage, backed by Pentair, is meaningful. Register your pump, document installs, and call PSAM—my team moves fast when water is down.
Key takeaway: Measure, maintain, and lean on a warranty that actually protects you.
Detailed Comparison #2 — Myers vs Franklin Electric: Field Serviceability, Efficiency, and Real-World Ownership
- Technical performance analysis: Both brands build capable pumps, but the Myers pairing of Pentek XE motor and Teflon-impregnated staging shines in start torque, thermal margin, and abrasion resistance. In the field, I see Myers hold tighter clearances longer, keeping efficiency near BEP and preventing long, hot re-primes that age motors. Franklin Electric often packages well but leans on proprietary control solutions; motor performance is solid, yet component interchangeability can be restrictive. Real-world application differences: In rural installations where access is limited, Myers’ field serviceable design—true threaded assembly—lets any qualified contractor re-seat, re-seal, or swap stages without proprietary tools or dealer-only parts. That matters on a Saturday when a foot valve sticks and you need water by dinner. Franklin systems tied to specific control boxes can complicate quick-turn field fixes, adding time and cost. Value proposition conclusion: For homeowners and contractors who want fast, on-site service and a pump that primes and runs without babysitting, Myers delivers. Add PSAM stocking and same-day shipping, and you get uptime, lower service bills, and confidence—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Priming, Sizing, and Long-Term Value
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with your well’s static and pumping water levels, then calculate Total Dynamic Head ( TDH) by adding vertical lift, friction loss, and desired pressure (psi x 2.31). For a 165-foot well with a pumping level at 120 feet and a target of 50 psi at the house (≈115 feet of head), expect TDH around 235–260 feet depending on pipe runs. Match that to the pump curve for a 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP, or 1 HP model. A typical three-bath home needs 8–12 GPM. A Myers 3/4 HP submersible often hits 10 GPM around 200–250 feet TDH. If you also irrigate, consider a booster or a larger pump. My recommendation: send PSAM your depth and fixture count—we’ll run the numbers and pick a Myers that lands near BEP so you get quiet operation, strong pressure, and energy efficiency.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes run well at 8–12 GPM. Larger families or irrigation zones might want 12–16 GPM. Multi-stage pump designs stack engineered composite impellers to build pressure. More stages don’t always mean better if you’re off the curve; too many stages at low flow waste energy and can cause heat buildup. Myers stagings are balanced to deliver smooth pressure rise up to your cut-out (often 60 psi). A 10 GPM family home with moderate head typically lives happily on a 3/4 HP; a big property sprinkler zone might warrant 1 HP. Always reference the pump curve and your TDH to ensure the system hits the sweet spot without excessive amperage draw.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency hinges on hydraulics, materials, and motor pairing. The Predator Plus Series uses precisely molded Teflon-impregnated staging and close-tolerance engineered composite impellers to minimize recirculation losses. Couple that with the Pentek XE motor, which offers optimized start torque and reduced I²R losses under load, and you keep operation near the best efficiency point (BEP). In practice, this means faster priming recovery post-outage, lower amperage at target pressure, and cooler running temperatures. I regularly measure 10–20% lower energy use than budget pumps at equivalent duties. For homeowners, that’s real savings and a cooler motor that lives longer.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Water chemistry is unforgiving. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion from acidic pH and mineral-rich water better than cast iron, which can pit, flake, and shed rust into your lines. Stainless maintains seal surfaces and casing integrity during thermal cycles—especially important after priming events and power blips. Cast iron works fine in neutral water, but in the Southwest (like the Valdivias’ New Mexico well), stainless pays off. Longevity isn’t just about the motor; it’s about keeping clearances and seals clean. Myers’ stainless shells and bowls are a big reason I see 8–15 year service lives, even when water isn’t pristine.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Sand acts like sandpaper against tight clearances. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers form a low-friction boundary film under water, reducing wear from small grit that sneaks past the intake screen. The material rebounds thermally better than many thermoplastics, so clearances don’t permanently open after a hot run. Less wear means the pump stays on its designed curve longer. If your well occasionally brings up fines, pair the pump with a spin-down sediment filter to catch the bigger particles. In my service book, systems with these impellers and basic filtration rarely lose performance prematurely.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor uses high-grade copper windings, optimized rotor design, and improved cooling pathways for lower heat rise. High-thrust bearings handle the axial load of multi-stage stacks gracefully. During and after priming, when torque demands spike, these motors recover to speed quickly without lingering in high-current draw. That’s where many “standard” motors waste energy and overheat. Add built-in thermal overload protection and lightning protection, and you’ve got a motor that forgives brief upstream hiccups without permanent damage. In field tests, I see stable amperage, quick cut-out attainment, and fewer nuisance trips.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
A skilled DIYer can install a pump, but be honest about your comfort with electrical work, hoisting, sealing pitless adapters, and setting pressure switch and pressure tank pre-charge. A misstep—like a nicked cable or a leaky check valve—can mean lost prime or a burned motor. Licensed contractors bring torque arrestors, proper wire splice kit materials, and test gear to verify performance on day one. If you do tackle it yourself, buy a complete kit from PSAM and call me first; I’ll walk you through depth measurements, staging selection, and start-up steps. For complex or deep wells, hire a pro—cheaper than a second install.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump integrates start components in the motor. Fewer parts to mount, simpler wiring—great for most homes. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start and run capacitors and a relay. That can make troubleshooting and capacitor replacement easier without pulling the pump. Performance-wise, both can meet spec; selection often hinges on service preferences and existing infrastructure. Myers offers both. For the Valdivias’ 3/4 HP 230V system, 2-wire was perfect—clean install and fewer components exposed to lightning on the wall. Contractors often choose 3-wire for large HP or known surge environments.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing and clean electrical supply, 8–15 years is a realistic expectation. I service Myers units that top 20 years thanks to good water chemistry and annual checks. Maintenance is simple: verify tank pre-charge, check for suction leaks, clean aerators, and inspect the check valve and priming plug gasket annually. If you irrigate or pull sandy water seasonally, add a sediment pre-filter and flush it monthly during heavy use. Keep a log of pressure cut-in/out and amperage. If those shift, call me before a minor issue turns major.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Quarterly: inspect for visible leaks, test a few cycles, and listen for changes in tone. Bi-annually: check pressure tank pre-charge (pump off, zero pressure), verify pressure switch settings, and clean faucet aerators. Annually: confirm amperage draw under load, inspect grounding and surge protection, and exercise isolation valves. Every 3–5 years: pull and inspect foot valve if you run a jet system. Keep good notes. Myers pumps are forgiving, but small issues—like a seeping union—add up to heat and wear. Plan the quick checks, and you’ll avoid 2 a.m. Surprises.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty on many models, far better than the 12–18 months typical of budget lines. Coverage includes manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. Register your pump and keep install documentation. If you purchase through PSAM, we help you navigate claims fast. The real value? Fewer replacements. I’ve replaced budget pumps under warranty only to do it again two years later; with Myers, I rarely see early failures. Extended real-world reliability is the point—you’re not just buying a warranty, you’re buying a brand that seldom needs it.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps can look tempting at the shelf, but factor replacements, energy, and service calls. A cut-rate unit that lasts 3–5 years may need two or three swaps in a decade. Add $300–$600 per service visit, higher kilowatt use from poor efficiency, and incidental parts. Myers, with 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP and robust stainless/composite builds, often runs 8–15 years on the original install. Energy savings alone can hit 10–20% annually; fewer truck rolls and parts push total ownership cost solidly in Myers’ favor. Call it what it is: peace of mind for less money over time.
Conclusion
Priming a Myers water pump safely and easily isn’t a mysterious ritual—it’s a disciplined checklist: de-energize, vent air, confirm check-valve health, completely flood the casing (for jets), start gently under the right pressure switch settings, and purge air intelligently. The Valdivias went from “no water” to a rock-solid prime and steady 50–60 psi in under an hour because they paired good technique with the right equipment. That’s the Myers advantage: 300 series stainless steel where it matters, Teflon-impregnated staging that shrugs off grit, and the Pentek XE motor that hits pressure without drama. Backed by Pentair and PSAM’s same-day support, Myers turns well systems into appliances—quiet, reliable, and predictable.
If you need a hand selecting the right submersible well pump, jet pump, or priming kit, reach out. I’ll size it to your TDH, land you on the correct pump curve, and make sure your first prime is your last for a long time. With Myers, the extra quality up front is worth every single penny.